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Crochet Plain Granny Square, One Color or Multi-Color

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Plain Granny Square: Solid

Related Links (2016)

  • Vibrant Vintage main info page
  • Ravelry ebook – includes links to all separate patterns (not updated)
  • Updated Vibrant Vintage Blanket ebook (Etsy) – Condensed and fully updated 22-page PDF with entire VVCAL Vibrant Vintage Blanket – 33 updated squares, joining method, updated wide lace border
  • Ravelry group
  • Facebook Group
  • Please don’t reproduce these instructions (i.e. Copy and paste) or the PDF instructions anywhere. If you refer to the pattern please use a link to my site. PDF printing is for personal use only. Thank you! Have fun!

Charted instruction:

Plain Granny Square with Key

Written instruction US Terms:

For UK Terms and Video Instruction, scroll down.

  • 2dccl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw yarn through 3 lps
  • 4dccl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 4 times, yo, draw yarn through 5 lps
  • beg beginning
  • beg 4dccl beg dc, (yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 3 times, yo, draw yarn through 4 lps
  • beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
  • beg pcorn beg popcorn (beg dc, 3dc) in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in beg dc, grab lp, pull lp through to close
  • beg tr (sc, ch2) – counts as 1 tr
  • bet between
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • hdc half double crochet
  • lp(s) loop(s)
  • MR make ring Ss, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
  • omt omitting
  • pcorn popcorn 4dc in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in first dc, grab lp, pull lp through to close
  • picot ch3, sc in top sode bars of prev st
  • prev previous
  • puff st yo, (insert hook in indicated spot, yo, pull up lp) 3 times, yo pull yarn through all lps
  • rem remaining
  • rep rep
  • RS/WS right side/wrong side of work
  • sc single crochet
  • sk skip
  • sp space
  • ss Ss
  • st(s) st(es)
  • tr treble crochet
  • yo yarn over

Foundation: Ch-3 and join in first Ch to make ring. You may also make a magic circle if you prefer that method. Also feel free to chain more stitches if you are used to chaining 4 or 5. I like to chain 3 for my ring, because I like the center hole to disappear when I weave ends.

Work 7 Rounds as follows…

Round 1: All in ring, working over center tail so as to pull center circle closed tight when square is complete: Beg DC, Ch-1, (2DC, Ch-1) 3 times, DC, join with a slip stitch in top chain of Beg DC _8 DC, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 2: In chain space: (Beg DC, Ch-1, 3DC), (3DC, Ch-1, 3DC) in next chain space -corner made- repeat corner 2 times more, 2DC in first chain space to complete corner, join with a slip stitch in top chain of Beg DC _24 DC, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 3: In chain space: (Beg DC, Ch-1, 3DC), **3DC in between clusters of 3DC across to corner space, make corner, repeat from ** 2 times more. 3DC in between clusters of 3DC across to first chain space, 2DC in chain space to complete corner, join with a slip stitch to top chain of Beg DC. _36 DC, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 4: Repeat Round 3 _48 DC, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 5: Repeat Round 3 _60 DC, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 6: In chain space: (Beg DC, Ch-1, 2HDC), **HDC in all stitches across to corner chain space, (2HDC, Ch-1, 2HDC) all in corner chain space -HDC corner made- Repeat from ** 2 times more, HDC in all stitches across to first chain space HDC in first chain space, join with a slip stitch to top of beg DC _76 HDC,4 Ch-1 total_

Round 7: 3SC in chain space, SC in all stitches around, placing 3SC in corners. After final SC, join with a slip stitch in first SC, cut yarn and finish off ends _88 SC total_ 

Shown below is a closeup of the door just before working a 3SC corner in the chain space. I show this just to clarify where to place stitches, because working into an HDC can be a little confusing. In the photo below, I’m ready to work the 3SC corner.

Plain Granny Square: Multi-color

Work exactly as for Solid square above, but choose 5 colors for Rounds 1-5, and a sixth color for both Rounds 6 and 7.

Cut yarn and weave in ends after every color round, and join new color with a slip stitch in corner chain space to begin the next round.

UK Terms – for UK Terms and Video Instruction, scroll down.

Special stitches

  • Beg tr = (1dc, ch1)

Foundation: Ch3 and join in first Ch to make ring. You may also make a magic circle if you prefer that method. Also feel free to chain more stitches if you are used to chaining 4 or 5. I like to chain 3 for my ring, because I like the center hole to disappear when I weave ends.

Round 1: All in ring, beg tr, ch1, (2tr, Ch1) 3 times, 1tr, join with a slip stitch in top chain of beg tr_8 tr, 4 Ch1 total_

Round 2: In chain space: (Beg tr, Ch-1, 3tr), (3tr, Ch-1, 3tr) in next chain space -corner made- repeat corner 2 times more, 2tr in first chain space to complete corner, join with a slip stitch in top chain of Beg tr_24 tr, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 3: In chain space: (Beg tr, Ch-1, 3tr), **3tr in between clusters of 3tr across to corner space, make corner, repeat from ** 2 times more. 3tr in between clusters of 3tr across to first chain space, 2tr in chain space to complete corner, join with a slip stitch to top chain of Beg tr. _36 tr, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 4: Repeat Round 3 _48 tr, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 5: Repeat Round 3 _60 tr, 4 Ch-1 total_

Round 6: In chain space: (Beg tr – counts as 1 htr, Ch-1, 2htr), **htr in all stitches across to corner chain space, (2htr, Ch-1, 2htr) all in corner chain space -htr corner made- Repeat from ** 2 times more, htr in all stitches across to first chain space, htr in first chain space, join with a slip stitch to top of beg tr _76 htr,4 Ch-1 total_

Round 7: 3dc in chain space, 1dc in all stitches around, placing 3dc in corners. After final dc, join with a slip stitch in first dc, cut yarn and finish off ends _88 dc total_ 

Shown below is a closeup of the door just before working a 3dc corner in the chain space. I show this just to clarify where to place stitches, because working into an htr can be a little confusing. In the photo below, I’m ready to work the 3dc corner.

Video Instruction:

Note: This video is from the 2020 VVCAL, but the square is very similar, but there are a couple of differences. In this video, Round 1 has 3-dc groups instead of 2dc groups. If you prefer that, this will not change your final square much. However, the video also shows (US) dc on round 6 instead of (US) hdc. You should definitely use hdc as the you could run of yarn if you are using a color pack.

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

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VVCAL Vibrant Vintage Crochet Blanket – Main Info Page (2016 CAL)

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VVCAL Pages

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Welcome to the Vibrant Vintage CAL (VVCAL) Information Page! The Crochet Along is long over (2016!), so I have completely reformatted this page so that it is easy to locate all the blog posts for the squares, joining methods, and border. All yarn info and weekly CAL info, and any other variety extras have been removed from this page to make the pattern as clear as possible.

If you want to see all the cool things people have done with this blanket, join the Vibrant Vintage Blanket CAL Facebook group linked below. Loads of support and pretty pics in there! Folks are still finishing their projects too.

Hashtag #VVCAL on social media so I can see your pretty WIP and FO pics.

VVCAL Blanket Info

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Continuous Flat Braid Join Tutorial

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Part 1: How to join all of your squares up to the final column. Part 2 will include your final left-hand column of squares plus finishing the border.

Many of you will say this is confusing and crazy! There is definitely a “light-bulb” moment that has to go off, and then its smooth sailing, and before you know it, you’ll be trying to convert every join so it’s continuous. I’m not technologically advanced enough to make videos, but check our YouTube “continuous granny square join” for some great views of the process. The “continuous” method will be very similar, but obviously the join has a different look since this is flat braid.

To begin, you will need finished squares ready to join. My blanket is 4 x 4 12″ squares (16 total). My chosen square is the Circle of Friends square by Priscilla Hewitt (worked with worsted weight yarn held double and a size 9mm hook), plus one DC round (DC in every stitch around, placing 5 DC in all 4 corners). See my adjustments to the Circle of Friends square here. Also, when I do my Flat Brand Join, I like to add another round of SC (SC in all stitches around, placing 3 SC in all 4 corners), in the same color as my joining color.

For ease of readability within the tutorial, I name my 3SC corner Sts (purple SC round) as follows: From RIGHT to LEFT, these 3 corner stitches will be called “SC#1, SC#2, and SC#3”

So here, you can see my final SC round of purple on all motifs. That square at lower right in the photo below will be my first square to join.

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The diagram below shows how you will align and number your squares and the path you will take during this tutorial. I borrowed this image from CrochetCabana.com, and it’s also in my other CJAYG tutorial. (One notable difference is that I do not start where the diagram says “start”; rather, I back over to the top right corner so that I start and finish in the corner of the blanket.)

Okay, let’s get to it! Work 3 sides of Square 1, starting in upper right corner of square as follows:

Work Corner: (SC in SC#1, Ch-5, SC in SC#3), **(Ch-2, Skip 1 St, SC in next St) across, stopping when you have 2 Sts left before the corner SC#2. Ch-2, and Work Corner. Repeat from ** once more, and continue across the third side in this manner until you reach the SC in SC#1 of the lower right corner. Ch-5

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Pick up motif 2 and SC in SC#3 of any corner.

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Ch-1 and remove loop from hook, as seen in the photo below.

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Insert hook in the Ch-2 loop on the completed motif that opposes your current position. Put the loop back on the hook.

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Pull the loop through and Ch-1.

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**Skip 1 St, SC in next St, Ch-1, Repeat this maneuver of “remove loop from hook, insert hook in corresponding Ch-2 loop, replace loop on hook, Pull Loop Through, Ch-1, repeat from ** across. Photo below shows progress. The chain loop at the right-hand side is the Ch-5.

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When you reach the corner, work it without joining anything, as seen below. Continue Ch-2 loops around, over 2 more sides, worked plain. Again, after the first SC of the corner, Ch-5.

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Next, you’ll be joining Motif 3 – and then 4. On your final square of this first row, only work 2 sides, as seen in the photo below.

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Now you’re ready to join on your second row of squares! I’ve laid a couple out to give you an idea.

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To attach motif 5, begin by working as you have before, joining by pulling loop through in the Ch-2 loops. When you reach the upper right corner of motif 5, SC in SC#1, Ch-2

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Remove loop from hook and insert hook into the diagonal Ch-5 corner loop. Replace loop on hook as seen in photo below.

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Pull loop through and Ch-3

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Pick up motif 6 and SC in SC#3

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Join one side of motif 6 as you’ve been joining before, and repeat the same “pull loop through” maneuver when you reach the corner. Below you can see how the diagonal Ch-5 corner loop is “picked up” but the adjacent corner loop is left unworked.

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Join motif 7 and 8 or all of however many squares you have in your column. When you reach the final square at the very top (adjacent to motif 1) you will need to join the corners together by working Ch-2, pull loop through on adjacent corner, Ch-2. These corners are joined because this is the perimeter of your piece.

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Here is what your piece will look like at this point. I know it looks weird!! Trust the process 😉

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Work 3 sides of the top square, until you reach the SC in SC#1 of the final corner, and Ch-2

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Here is a close-up of the corner as it should look to you. Get ready to work magic!

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Remove loop from hook and insert hook down through the adjacent Ch-5 corner loop…

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…and then down through the diagonal (unworked) corner loop. Below you can see the hook going down through both corner loops

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Put the loop back on the hook

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Pull loop through, and Ch-3, SC in SC#3 on Motif 7. Congratulations! Your four-corner join is complete!

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Work 3 sides of this motif, making sure to leave outer Ch-5 loops unjoined as seen below, since these are not yet at the perimeter of your piece.

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Once you reach your last square at the bottom of your piece, work only 2 sides as seen below. Ch-5 and you’re ready to join your next column of squares from the bottom up!

Repeat this joining process for all remaining columns of squares until you have 1 final column of squares remaining, and that will conclude Part 1 of this tutorial.

In Part 2, we can work your final column of squares and go around the border.

IMG_0141

 

  

Part 2!

Now it’s time to add your final column of squares to your piece. Join from the bottom up, just as you joined your other columns.

 

Then work around the upper-left square and join one side of the next square until you get to the perimeter of the blanket. 

 

 

Instead of working chain 5 here, work chain 2, join in the adjacent chain 5 loop to close the perimeter, chain 2, and continue. 

 

Continue joining in this manner until you reach the bottom left corner of the piece. 

Now, when you look at your blanket, you have 2 sides with perimeter joins that look like the one in the photo above, and 2 sides that look like the photo below. 

 

Let’s zoom out!

 

Make your chain 5 corner, and continue across until you reach the first little loop on the bottom edge. 

Chain 2, slip stitch in the loop, chain 2

 

  

 

Continue like this across the bottom and up the right-hand side, and join to the beginning SC. 

   

Now all of your continuous flat braid is complete! You can add any border at this point. 

I like to work (SC, chain 2, SC) in the first chain 5 loop, then (chain 2, SC) across, working an SC decrease in the join between two squares. (Put one “leg” of each part of the SC decrease in each chain 5 loop of the perimeter join.) 

 

 

Then you can do a round of SC – 5 SC in the corners and 2 SC in each chain 2 space. 

From here you can do Reverse SC, or some lace, or shells… Anything! 🙂 

 

Bravo! You did the Continuous Flat Braid Join! 😊😊

Looks beautiful with any project and is very sturdy. Crafterly luck to you all!

 

 

  

     

Textured Circles: An Expansion on the Circle of Friends Square

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Important Links:

  • Circle of Friends – what a wonderful free pattern written by my crochet idol, Priscilla Hewitt.
  • Check out my Textured Circles Blanket master post for all the different ways I’ve played with this square over here. It incudes different joins, block modifications, and borders!

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Today, I’d like to share a pattern to expand this square by 5 rounds to 11″ – using worsted weight yarn and a size K (6.5mm) hook.

5-Round Expansion for Circle of Friends Square

After you have completed your final SC round of the Circle of Friends square, you are ready to begin.

Round 1: Join new yarn with a slip stitch in Back Loop Only (BLO) of corner stitch. Work (SC, Chain 1) – this stands in for the first DC – 2 DC in that same BLO spot, work DC all around the square in BLO of all stitches, putting 3DC in BLO in the corners. Join to the beginning DC. Finish off.

Round 2: Join new yarn with slip stitch in any corner DC. (SC, Chain 2, SC) in same corner stitch. (Chain 2, skip 1 stitch, SC) around the square, putting (SC, Chain 2, SC) in all corners. Join with a Slip stitch to beginning SC. Do not finish off.

Round 3: (SC, Chain 1) in first corner chain loop – counts as first DC – Chain 2, 3DC in same corner loop, 2 DC in all loops around, putting (3DC, chain 2, 3DC) in all corners. When you reach the beginning corner, work 2 DC in it to complete the round. Join and finish off.

Round 4: Join new color in any corner chain space. Work 3 DC in same chain space. Work SC all around, putting 3SC in all corners. Join to beginning SC and finish off.

Round 5: I work this round in my joining color! Join in any corner SC through BLO. Work 3 SC in that same BLO spot. Work SC in BLO all around, putting 3SC in BLO of all corners. Join to beginning SC and finish off.

Done! Now you’re ready to work any join. I like the Flat Braid Join – link on main page as indicated above.

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Treble Scallop Edging: Free Pattern

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Treble Scallop Edging!

This edge starts with a foundation round of (SC, Chain 2, Skip 1 stitch) repeated, with (SC, Chain 2, SC) in the corners. Check out the before pic below to see this in action.

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Here is what your piece will look like before each scallop.

Try this pretty edging in a built tough, but super soft DK weight yarn like:

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Step 1: Skip 1 Chain loop, Treble Crochet in the next Chain loop, Chain 2

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Step 2: Single Crochet in the top side bars of the Treble Crochet that you’ve already done – (Picot made)

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Step 3: Continue to make (Treble, Picot) until you have 5 Picots made. Treble Crochet once more to finish the Scallop

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Step 4: Skip 1 Chain loop, SC in the next Chain loop to anchor the Scallop

That’s it! Easy-peasy 1 round scallop/picot lace edging 🙂

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Now for the corners..

If you’re a mega planner, then you’ve made your foundation round to have the correct amount of Chain loops made to end up with perfect corners. *I* prefer to relax and just let the artistic muse guide me 😉

BUT that means I end up with extra Chain loops at the end of my row.. So, as shown in the pic below, I just did a little “floating picot” as follows:

SC to anchor Scallop, Chain 4, SC in third chain from hook, Chain 1, skip 1 Chain loop, SC in next Chain loop.

Work corner: Copy your instructions for the regular scallop, but instead of only working 5 picots, you’ll work 7.

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When I got to the next corner, I had the correct amount of chains for a normal corner. So, I made the next corner as in the photo below. “But that’s not right!! But.. but.. SYMMETRYY?!”

I just make sure I have diagonal symmetry in this case, and it still makes for a beautiful edging. Diagonal corners will be identical, and all is well in the universe.

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Bravo! Enjoy your pretty lace edging 🙂

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Lacy Peaks Edging: Free Pattern

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Lacy Peaks Edging Tutorial

This is a fabulous (and easy!) 5-round border option to work on my “Candy Puffs Blanket” pattern as pictured in the photos.

Make Picot: Chain 2, SC in side bar of the previous HDC  just made.

Foundation Rnd: On Rnd 1 (the next round), you will be working groups of 3DC all around, so your Foundation Rnd needs to set that up. In most cases, you can go ahead and work an SC or DC Foundation round, with 3SC or (3DC, Ch-2, 3DC) in the corners.

On my blanket, I have a raw edge with puffs, chain loops, sideways DC stitches, and the lot (hopefully you can somewhat see this in the photos), so my raw edge here was not suitable for an SC or DC Foundation round.

I chose instead to work (SC, Ch-3) repeat around, with the plan of making my Rnd 1 3DC groups in each Ch-3 loop.

Rnd 1: If you have started with an SC or DC round, then work evenly spaced (3DC in next St, Skip 2 St) repeats around, putting (3DC, Ch-2, 3DC) in all corners.

Make sure you have the same amount of 3DC groups on opposing sides of your piece.

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Rnd 2 and 3: (SC between 3DC groups, Ch-3) repeat around.

Rnd 4: SC in corner Ch-3 loop. Ch-1, (HDC, Picot, 2HDC, Picot, HDC) all in same corner loop. (2HDC, Picot, HDC) in all Ch-3 loops around, making (2HDC, Picot, 2HDC, Picot, HDC) in remaining 3 corners. Finish off.

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Lace Flower Hexagon: Half Motif

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I’ve been playing with my Knit Picks Chroma Yarn* – Fingering weight – and this lacy flower hexagon chart that I found online.

After showing some photos of this heavenly blanket on Instagram and Facebook, I received some questions regarding the half-hexagon. I made it up, but here is the written pattern!

Lacy Flower Hexagon: Half Motif

Row 1: Chain 3 and join to make a ring. All in Ring, (SC, Chain 1) counts as first DC here and throughout,

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(Chain 1, DC) 7 times. 8 DC total. Turn work
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Row 2: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, Skip chain space here and throughout. 2 DC in next stitch, (Chain 2, 2 DC in next 2 stitches) 2 times, Chain 2, 2 DC in next stitch, DC in final stitch (which will be the top of your beginning DC). 14 DC and 3 Chain-2 spaces total. Turn work

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Row 3: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, DC, 2 DC, (Chain 2, 2 DC, DC in next 2 stitches, 2 DC) 2 times, Chain 2, 2 DC, DC in next 2 stitches. 20 DC, 3 Chain-2 spaces. Turn work

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Row 4: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, 2 DC, (Chain 2, 2 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, 2 DC) 2 times, Chain 2, 2 DC, DC in next 3 stitches. 26 DC and 3 Chain-2 spaces. Turn work

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Row 5: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, DC in next 4 stitches, (Chain 3, SC in Chain-2 space, Chain 3, DC in next 8 stitches) 2 times, Chain 3, SC in Chain-2 space, Chain 3, SC in next 5 Stitches. 26 DC and 6 Chain-3 spaces. Turn work

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Row 6: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, [(Chain 3, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Chain 3, Skip next DC, DC in next 6 stitches] 2 times, (Chain 3, sc in next chain space) 2 times, Chain 3, skip next DC, DC in next 4 stitches. 20 stitches and 9 Chain-3 spaces. Turn work

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Row 7: (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, [(Chain 3, SC in next chain space) 3 times, Chain 3, skip 1 DC, DC in next 4 stitches] 2 times, (Chain 3, SC in next chain space) 3 times, Chain 3, skip 1 DC, DC in next 3 stitches. 14 DC and 12 Chain-3 spaces. Turn work

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If you aren’t joining on the final row, then work your last row as follows:

Row 8: (SC, chain 1) in first stitch, Chain 1, DC between this and next stitch, [(Chain 3, SC in next chain space) 4 times, Chain 3, (DC, chain 1, DC) between two center stitches) 2 times, (Chain 3, SC in next chain space) 4 times, Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, DC between this and final DC, Chain 1, DC in final stitch. Finish off.

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If you will be joining on the final row, work row 8 as follows:

Row 8 (Join as you go): (SC, Chain 1) in first stitch, release loop from hook, insert hook in chain-1 space between DC stitches on corresponding motif. put loop back on hook. See photo below. In the photo, I have released the loop, inserted the hook, and placed the loop back on the hook.

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Pull the loop through that space and complete your chain stitch. From now on, I will refer to this procedure as “Join.” When you Join, it counts as a chain – See below.

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DC between this and next stitch, **(Chain 1, join to corresponding chain space, Chain 1, SC in next chain space) 4 times, Chain 1, Join, Chain 1, DC in between 2 center stitches, release loop from hook, insert hook in chain space of left-most corner, and in chain space of right-most corner, and put the loop back on the hook. Pull loop through both corners, joining them together, complete chain, DC between center 2 stitches again. Repeat once more from **, Join final side, and DC in between final 2 stitches, Join final chain-1 space, and DC in final stitch. Reference next 3 photos to see joining process. This is a “Flat Braid Join” if you’d like to do some YouTube/Internet research on the method.

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Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using the links marked with an asterisk*. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, and it helps keep CypressTextiles going!

Playful Lace Scallop Edging

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Your blankie is sure to be a hit with this super cute edging!

Foundation:

Your first round will be a chain loop round. So if your final blanket round is an SC round, then (SC, skip 1 stitch, chain 2) repeat around – in all 4 corners, work (SC, chain 2, SC).

If your final round is chain loops, just make sure you can work (SC, chain 2) loops around, putting (SC, chain 2, SC) in the 4 corners.

It will help if between corner chain loops, you have a number of chain that is a multiple of 6 + 5. Example: 35 chain loops between corners.

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Playful Scallop Edging

Count 2 chain loops before any corner and join yarn. SC in same chain loop, treble crochet (TR) in corner chain loop, (chain 3, SC in top of TR) – Picot made – (TR, Picot) 6 more times, TR, skip 1 chain loop, SC in next chain loop. 7-Picot Scallop Corner made.

In next chain loop: 3 DC, Picot, 3 DC, SC in next chain loop. Meringue made.

Skip 1 chain loop, {(TR, Picot) 5 times, TR} skip 1 chain loop, SC in next chain loop. 5-Picot Scallop made.

Alternate between Meringue and Scallop across to next corner. In the corners, make your 7-Picot Scallop like before.

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Heart Mandala: Octagon to Square

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This Heart Mandala is absolutely addictive and completely, divinely beautiful! I’m in love with it 🙂 Check out the related links at the end of this post.

Try this fun pattern in a built tough, but super soft DK weight yarn like:

 Square Off Heart Mandala

Special Stitches (American terms)

DC Cluster:  In the same stitch, work 2 DC stitches up to the final step, leaving behind a loop each time. YO and draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

TR Cluster: In the same stitch, work 3 TR stitches up to the final step, leaving behind a loop each time. YO and draw yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

DTR stitch: Wrap yarn around hook 3 times. YO and pull through 2 loops on hook until all loops are used (4 times total).

2DCdec: Make a DC cluster, but instead of working both “legs” in the same stitch, work them in the two stitches indicated.

2SCdec: Decrease the 2 indicated stitches together by working (insert hook in first stitch, YO, draw up a loop, insert hook in second stitch, YO draw up a loop, YO, draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.)

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Pattern

Round 1: With right side facing up, attach background color in any SC that falls in the center of a heart (not an SC made in a chain space). All in same stitch, (SC, Ch-6,  3 DTR), ***skip 2 stitches, TR in next stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, 2DCdec over last stitch of this shell and first stitch of next shell. DC in next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, 2SCdec over last stitch of this shell and first stitch of next shell, SC in next 4 stitches, DC, 2DCdec as before, DC in next 3 stitches, TR, (3 DTR, Ch-3, 3 DTR) in next SC, repeat from *** around to beginning corner. 2 DTR in same SC as beginning corner. Join with a slip stitch to 3rd chain in Ch-6 loop.

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Round 2: 5 SC in first chain space, SC in all stitches around, putting 5 SC in every corner chain space. When you arrive at the beginning, join with a slip stitch in beginning SC. Finish off and smile! 🙂

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Check out the original motif by the talented Crochet_Millan!

See the Half-Square Motif!

And the Quarter-Square Motif, too!

Using these partial motifs, you can make a square or rectangle blanket with the squares turned on the diagonal, for a neat effect. Use an opulent join such as my Celtic Lace Join for a beautiful lacy lattice to show off these gorgeous Heart Mandalas.

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Zipper Stripe Blanket

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The Zipper Stripe Blanket came about when I wanted to make a unisex design – it’s kind of like a Granny Stripe, but I didn’t want to use the word “Granny” 🙂

To make the blanket, I like to use the yarn held double, but it isn’t necessary.

Pattern (US Terms):

Foundation Chain: Start off by chaining an even number of stitches plus 3 (for turning)

I make my chain a tad smaller than what I want my final measurement to be because this blanket has a tendency to expand on row 2.

Row 1: DC in the 3rd chain from hook and in all chains across.

You should have an odd number of stitches.

Chain 2 and turn work.

I also recommend an alternate method: Turn work without chaining up, work SC in first DC and chain 1. This is what I do.

Row 2 (Pattern row): Work DC *between* the first and second DC of the row below. Skip 2 DC, and 2DC between the DC of the row below. Repeat across blanket until you reach the final 2 DC. Skip 1 DC and DC in last DC. Chain 2 and turn work.

In this blanket, except for at either end, you will be working between DC stitches, not in a chain space or into a stitch like normal. 

Repeat Row 2 for length of blanket.

Working with yarn held double gives more depth and texture to the piece. I like DK yarn doubled with a size 9mm hook. Or use any yarn with any hook! 🙂

I change color every other row to create the zipper effect. On my blankets, every other “zipper” stripe is white. To minimize yarn ends from color changes, work 2 rows white, don’t cut the yarn, attach new color and work 2 rows, carrying white yarn up the edge. This way, you only cut yarn on every other color.

There are a lot of color options with this blanket! I like this pattern because it makes a nice and sturdy piece and you get the granny stripe effect.

Have fun and let me know if I can clarify something! 🙂

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Offset Circles Crochet Blanket Pattern

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Offset Circles just might be my favorite design yet! I made it with a size H hook in my beloved Stylecraft DK Lucy Pack – perfect!! I can’t wait to make it in neutral, sandy tones with pale blues… Luuushh!

Available on three convenient crafty websites!
Etsy || Ravelry || Craftsy

Pattern includes:
Offset Circle – Square Motif
Offset Circle – Hexagon Motif
Half-hexagon gap filler (Offset Circle chopped down the center!)
Join as you go instructions!
Three great border options!

Go get it and fall in love with this funky piece!

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Polka Dot Blanket Crochet Pattern

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Polka Dot Blanket Pattern now available on three convenient sites Etsy, Ravelry, and Craftsy!

The Polka Dot is a great way to add a fresh breeze to any room décor. I have included three different sizes of hexagon, and the smaller the hex, the more polka dots will fit in your blanket size.

I just adore this pattern and will be making it in a variety of colors! Anything will work! Check pattern for ideas to brainstorm.

Color placement on sample blanket inspired by the Crazy Circus Wall Decals of WallsNeedLove.etsy.com 🙂

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Free Crochet Square Pattern: Crafter Mystery!

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Mystery Square! If you know who made this mystery free crochet square pattern, please let me know and I will link! For now, this square pictured below has been floating around without any credit to artist, designer, or pattern, but I just HAD to make it – such a beautiful sight. And I have these yarns that I have been dying to use in a blanket, but never knew what pattern I wanted to use. Well, now it’s staring me in the face!

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