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Zendoodle Blanket Rectangle Version – Part 2

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hi, sweet crafter! As the 4-part Zendoodle Blanket series has just come to a close, I have had messages regarding the rectangle POC inclusive rainbow version that I have been working up in Scheepjes Softfun and showing on my Instagram.

So I decided to create a free pattern version for this rectangle Zendoodle as well! It is just as wide as the original Zendoodle, but extended upward to make a big rectangle.

Here are links to the 4 parts of this free rectangle version:

Note: If you have previously purchased my Zendoodle Blanket on Etsy or Ravelry, I will send the updated PDF as soon as I am finished with it. Thank you! Good news: The update will include both PDFs for the Zendoodle Blanket and the Rectangle Version!

Use this hashtag to keep all of the Zendoodle Blankets progress photos together, whether you make the Original or the Rectangle.

#ZendoodleBlanket and #cypresstextiles

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry.

Zendoodle Blanket – Rectangle Version

Blanket Details

Head to Part 1 for blanket details!

Yarn Information

Shop through the affiliate links to support CypressTextiles, or head to a Scheepjes Retailer near you!

Scheepjes Softfun (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores / Black Sheep Wools)

Softfun No. 2623 x 3
Softfun No. 2492 x 2
Softfun No. 2617 x 1
Softfun No. 2650 x 3
Softfun No. 2651 x 3
Softfun No. 2634 x 2
Softfun No. 2605 x 2
Softfun No. 2535 x 2
Softfun No. 2640 x 2
Softfun No. 2423 x 2
Softfun No. 2626 x 2
Softfun No. 2515 x 2
Softfun No. 2426 x 1

Scheepjes Softfun Denim (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores)

I also provide comparable Softfun color numbers below, to omit the Denim and Aquarel and use only Softfun.

Softfun Denim No. 510 or Softfun No. 2408 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 505 or Softfun No. 2607 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 506 or Softfun No. 2516 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 517 or Softfun No. 2604 x 2
Softfun Denim No. 516 or Softfun No. 2647 x 2

Scheepjes Softfun Aquarel (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores)

Softfun Aquarel No. 804 – or simply omit and use Softfun No. 2426 in its place x 1

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: This pattern is only in US Terms, but there is only 1 stitch used: single crochet, so if you are used to reading UK Terms, please know that you are using UK dc for this entire project. (US) sc = (UK) dc

chN chain N number of times
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
PLT Join “Pull Loop Through” join (See more info within pattern)
Rep repeat
Rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Zendoodle is worked in strips from bottom edge to top edge. I give two options to construct this blanket. You can either work the first strip complete and then join all subsequent strips on as you go, or you can make all of the strips complete (separately) and then sew them together using my instructions. I provide full instruction for the join-as-you-go strips method, and then I give notes for the sewn strips method.

Head to Part 1 to choose a construction method and to see Tips for Neat Edges!

Schematic

Strip 2

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 1 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: House

Note: The House shape is made by working up a Base Triangle as for Strip 1, but instead of cutting the yarn after the Base Triangle, continue vertically as to make the House shape as instructed.

Row 1 WS Using Softfun No. 2535, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Rows 3-10 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to center sp, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in center sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to final sp, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. DO NOT cut yarn after Row 10. [22 sc, 21 sp]

If you are working Join-as-you-go strips, join to Strip 1 at this point as follows:

Turn both Strip 1 and Base Triangle to the WS, and align them as in the photo below.
Release the loop from the hook, insert the hook front to back through the left corner of the base triangle on strip 1, and grab the loop. Now your work should look like the photo below.
Pull Loop Through to the front like in the second photo below. PLT Join maneuver complete!

This is how you will join Strip 2 to Strip 1 as you go. Before every WS Row, when the row touches the completed strip, you will work the PLT maneuver in the space of the corresponding row that you are about to work. I have plenty of photos, don’t worry.

If you are working the strips separately and sewing them afterward, simply omit this PLT Join maneuver and work the strips as instructed.

Rows 11-31 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc in final sp, turn [22 sc, 21 sp]

Here are some photos of the PLT Join process for the House shape.

This photo shows that before you begin Row 13, you release the loop to prepare to PLT Join.

This next photo shows the PLT Join in progress. You can see that the loop is being pulled through the corresponding row that is about to be worked.

Here is Row 3 being worked, and you can see that the first sc of Row 3 is simply continued after the PLT Join maneuver is worked. It is a common mistake to make a chain after you pull the loop through. Instead, you just work the first sc of the next row.

Here is the House shape when it’s done! The work is turned to the RS in this photo. You can see that the House shape is joined on the left hand side, before every WS Row, when the row touches the completed

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun No. 2605, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Here is a photo of the work right before Row 1, with PLT Join in progress. This is an important photo because it shows that the PLT is worked before EVERY WS row – even is that means the first row. After you join your yarn with a slip st, you make the PLT Join maneuver.

Here is the second triangle in progress, and you can see the PLT Join worked before each odd-numbered row. Remember, this photo shows the WS of the work, because the PLT is always worked with WS facing.

Step 3: Diamond

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Diamond does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 506 in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp of House shape from Step 1, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Rows 2-21 (Ch1, sc in next sp) up to final sp before center st, ch1, sc2tog as follows: (Insert hook in next sp, yoh, pull up loop) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps – sc2tog made, (ch1, sc in next sp) to end, placing final sc in last sp. On Row 21, work sc in ch-sp, cut yarn, and finish off. [1 sc]

Step 4: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2650 with ss in final sc of first triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final sc of Diamond from Step 3, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing, join Softfun Aruarel No. 804 with ss in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, and work as for first triangle. Weave all ends.

Step 5: Arrow A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together..

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2617 in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 4, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before center, ch1, sc in final sc of Diamond from Step 3, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before end, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of first triangle on Bow Tie from Step 4, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over the next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [21 sc, 21 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 4-20 Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to ch-sp just before sc2tog, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 Rep Rows 21 and 22, using chart as a guide. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 41 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 6: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no PLT joining on this shape, because it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in final sc of Row 21 on Arrow A from Step 5, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp on Row 41 of Arrow A, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 7: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing left

This Trapezoid B in the photo is worked after a Trapezoid A, but the concept is the same.

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before every WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together. .

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2617 with ss in first sp of Row 41 of Arrow A from Step 5, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Large Triangle from Step 6, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle from Step 6 stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 8: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape as it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2426 with ss in final sc of Large Triangle from Step 6, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp of Row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 7, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: Be sure to make the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in first sp of Row 20 of Trapezoid B from Step 7, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Step 9: Diamond

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Diamond does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 8, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center st of Trapezoid B from Step 7, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 8, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Step 10: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape as it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in final sc of First Triangle on Bow Tie from Step 8, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of Diamond from Step 9, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: Be sure to make the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2492 with ss in final sc of Second Triangle on Bow Tie from Step 8, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of Diamond from Step 9, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Step 11: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 506 with ss in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 7, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in center sp of Trapezoid from Step 6, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, sc2tog as follows: (Insert hook in next sp, yoh, pull up loop) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps – sc2tog made, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 12: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no PLT joining on this shape, because it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2492 with ss in final sc of Row 21 on Arrow A from Step 5, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp on Row 41 of Arrow A, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 13: Parallelogram, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 in the first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 7, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sc of Large Triangle, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern, cut yarn and weave ends. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 14: Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 in the first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 2 is complete! Do a happy dance!

Strip 3

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 2 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: Base Triangle

Joining note: there is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strip.

Row 1 WS Using Softfun Denim No. 516, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2426 with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun Aquarel No. 804, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 516 with ss in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle from Step 1, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Large Triangle does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 506 with ss in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp on Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 5: Trapezoid B

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before every WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2651 with ss in first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Large Triangle from Step 4, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 6: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2634 with ss in final st of Large Triangle from Step 4, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp of Row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 5, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun No. 2634, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 7: Arrow A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together..

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softun No. 2651 in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 6, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before center, ch1, sc in first sp of row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 5, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before end, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of first triangle on Bow Tie from Step 6, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over the next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [21 sc, 21 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 4-20 Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to ch-sp just before sc2tog, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 Rep Rows 21 and 22, using chart as a guide. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 41 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 8: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2650 with ss in final st of Row 21 of Arrow A from Step 7, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp of Row 41 of Arrow A from Step 7, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 9: Bow Tie

Note: this bow tie is worked after a diamond shape, but the idea is the same.

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape as it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in final sc of Trapezoid B from Step 9, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp of Row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 9, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: Be sure to make the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun Denim No. 510, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 10: Diamond

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Diamond does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2650 in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 9, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center st of Trapezoid B from Step 8, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 9, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Step 11: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape as it does not touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Aquarel No. 804 with ss in final sc of First Triangle on Bow Tie from Step 9, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of Diamond from Step 10, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: Be sure to make the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in final sc of Second Triangle on Bow Tie from Step 9, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of Diamond from Step 10, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie as normal.

Step 12: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: No joining on this shape.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun denim 510 with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 13: Arrow B, Tail pointing left

Note: The construction of this shape in the photo is slightly different, but the resulting shape is the same. Use the written and chart instructions.

Note: The Arrow B above was created with slightly different construction. General shape is correct. Follow chart and written instruction. Arrow B is made by working a Parallelogram and then a Trapezoid B.

Joining Note: Work PLT Join before each WS row unless sewing.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 in the first st of Trapezoid, sc in same st, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp of trapezoid, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 22 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 23-41 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 14: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Rows 1-21 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2492 with ss in first sp, work as for previous Bow Tie.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: Work PLT Join before each WS row unless sewing.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun Aquarel No. 804, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 15: Fill Triangle B

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 with ss in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie from step 11, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final st of Diamond from step 10, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from step 11, turn [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-9 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to just sp just before center st, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) to end, turn. [4 sc, 4 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 10 Sc in sp, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [2 sc, 2 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 11 Sc2tog over 2 sps, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 3 is finished!! Woohoo! Give yourself a fist bump!

I can’t wait to share more with you, but for now, Part 2 is finished!

I hope you enjoy working on your strips!!

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

Linen Stitch Blanket Pattern Series

Have a look at the other blankets in this series! They are all free patterns, releasing on the last day of each month from May through September.

French Braid Blanket
Zendoodle Blanket (Part 1)
LissMiss Blanket
Beach Hut Blanket (Coming August 31)
Chevronnie Blanket (Coming September 30)

LissMiss Blanket Free Crochet Pattern – Linen Stitch Mitered Square

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, crafter! Welcome to the third free pattern of my five-blanket Linen Stitch series. LissMiss is a pattern I have picked up and set down many times since 2013. Check out the WIP post for tons of background info, including the knitted inspiration, and lots of photos.

Here are the first two blankets in my Linen Stitch Blanket Series

PDF Version

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee in my Etsy Shop and on Ravelry. Coloring pages for layouts are also included.

Social Media Sharing

Use this hashtag to keep all of the LissMiss Blankets progress photos together.

#LissMissBlanket

LissMiss Blanket Crochet Pattern

Blanket Details

The LissMiss Blanket name comes from “Linen Stitch Mitered Square (LSMS).” The way that the bright crisp white Cahlista interacts with the artsy and mottled River Washed XL is really a sight to behold. The River Washed XL has a slight halo, and the smooth white cotton really contrasts that in a lovely way. The resulting blanket is opulent and so visually appealing. It will be perfect in any room!

Blanket measures about 52x52in square
Yarn is Scheepjes River Washed XL and Cahlista
Hook size: 5mm hook and size 4mm for the final 2 rounds of the blanket border

Yarn Information

I used 1 x 50g ball each of the 22 colors of Scheepjes River Washed, and 14 balls of Scheepjes Cahlista.

Shop Scheepjes River Washed XL

I used 1 ball of each color – 22 colors at the time of this project. All of these links are affiliate links. You can shop through them to help support CypressTextiles at no additional cost to you, or find a Scheepjes Retailer nearby.

Shop Scheepjes Cahlista

I used 14 balls of color 106.

General Yarn Substitution Suggestions

Here are some ideas for yarn subs. The amounts will be up to you to discover, but I think they will all look great!

Thicker yarn and larger hook will result in a larger blanket.
Stone Washed XL will also work for this blanket and it would be lovely!
Sub in another color of Cahlista for a different look.
To use only Scheepjes Cahlista for the whole blanket, I recommend going down to a size G 4.2mm hook for this project. Then for the final 2 border rounds, go down to an F 3.75mm.
To use Scheepjes Stone Washed / River Washed original weight and Scheepjes Catona, I think it might work! Obviously, more squares will need to be made to achieve the same size blanket since these yarns are thinner. I would try a 3.5mm hook.

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: This pattern is only in US Terms, but there is only 1 stitch used in the blanket body: single crochet, so if you are used to reading UK Terms, please know that you are using UK dc for this entire project. (US) sc = (UK) dc

In the blanket border, I use (US) dc = (UK) tr

beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
PLT Join “Pull Loop Through” join (See more info within pattern)
Rep repeat
Rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

LissMiss is worked by making 1 mitered square, and then working 3 more off of it to make a 4-patch of mitered squares. At this point you have an option of making the mitered square groups individually and then sewing them together with an invisible seam like Mattress Stitch for example, or you can do as I do and work the entire blanket as a no-sew project. I will include those instructions.

Use 5mm hook for blanket body and first 2 rounds of blanket border. Use 4mm hook for final 2 rounds of blanket border.

Choosing a Construction Method

Should you join-as-you-go, or should you sew the separate strips together?

Join-as-you-go: Make square complete, and then join all subsequent squares as you go following instructions.

Love a no-sew project? This method is for you!
Want to learn my popular PLT Join method? Choose this method!

Invisible Seam: Work all square groups complete (separately) as instructed, and then sew them together when you’re done.

Want to take your project on the go? Choose this method!
Don’t mind a bit of sewing? This method is for you!

Schematics

LissMiss Layout

LissMiss Larger Layout (Just a suggestion for how to resize)

Square No. 1

Here is the back of the square. This pattern is completely reversible, but you can tell the front side by the ridge of the first chain edge. Look at the square from the back side to see how the beginning chain edge is different here. You may mark the front side if desired.

Row 1 Using River Washed XL, ch73, sc in third ch from hook, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 16 times, ch1, sk 1 ch, decrease as follows: insert hook in next ch, yoh, pull up lp, sk 1 ch, insert hook in next ch, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 17 times, turn. [34 sc, 34 sp, 1 decrease]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next ch-sp) until ch-sp before decrease is reached, sc2tog as follows: insert hook in ch-sp before decrease, yoh, pull up lp, insert hook in next ch-sp after decrease, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook, (ch1, sc in next ch-sp) across to end, turn.

Rows 3-6 Repeat Row 2. On Row 6, stop at the final step of the last sc, so you can change color, and cut yarn. (Note: I swapped for a new square, so it’s suddenly turquoise!) Draw Cahlista through to finish the last sc of this row.

Rows 7-12 Repeat Row 2. At the end of Row 12, change back to a new color of River Washed XL as before, and cut Cahlista.

Rows 13-34 Repeat Row 2, changing to Cahlista at the end of Row 18 and back to a new color of River Washed XL at the end of Row 24. Note: The square will be finished using this color of River Washed XL.

Row 35 Sc2tog over 2 ch-sps, cut yarn and weave all ends.

Square No. 2

Row 1 Join River Washed XL with ss in corner sp, ch37, sc in third ch from hook, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 16 times, ch1, sk 1 ch, decrease as follows: insert hook in next ch, yoh, pull up lp, insert hook in first ch-sp on completed Square, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 17 times, turn. [34 sc, 34 sp, 1 decrease]

Rows 2-35 Work as for Row 2 on first square.

Here are Square No. 1 and 2, RS facing. Square No. 1 is on bottom.

Square No. 3

Rows 1-35 Work as for Square No. 2.

Close-up!

Square No. 4

Row 1 Join River Washed XL with ss in first ch-sp on Square No. 1, ch2, sc in same sp, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 16 times, ch1, sk 1 ch, decrease as follows: insert hook in next ch-sp, yoh, pull up lp, insert hook in first ch-sp on Square No. 3, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook, (ch1, sk 1 ch, sc) 17 times, turn.

Rows 2-35 Work as for Square No. 1.

Sewing Pieces with Invisible Seam

At this point, if you want to sew your pieces with an invisible seam at the end, you have all the instructions that you need to complete your blanket body.

Follow the schematic below. Make 4 total 4-patches like you just made. These go in the center of the blanket body. Make 8 groups of only 2 squares (Square No. 1 and 2 in the instructions), and arrange them around the edges as shown. Make 4 of just Square No. 1 and sew them in at the corners. If you like, you can sew the pieces in rows and columns. However you prefer!

No-Sew Instructions

If you want to make your blanket without any sewing, I took lots more photos to show how that’s done. To make the squares, you have all the instructions you need, but you will need to join to adjacent completed squares with my PLT (Pull Loop Through) Join.

I drew up this schematic to show what order the squares will be made in if you are joining as you go. The amazing thing is, the blanket is NO-SEW! The hard part is, it grows as you go, so it’s tough to carry around toward the end.

LissMiss Layout with Squares Numbered in Order of Construction

Square No. 5

Row 1 Ch73, PLT Join as follows: release the lp from the hook, insert the hook front to back through the final sc of Row 1 of Square No. 4, grab lp, Pull Loop Through – PLT Join complete, ch1, sc in fourth ch from hook and work across as for previous squares. Count and make sure you have 34 sc total.

Rows 2-6 Work as for previous squares, making PLT Join to Square No. 4 before every WS Row. At the end of Row 6, stop after final step of last sc as before. Cut River Washed XL and draw Cahlista through to complete final sc. Note: PLT Join is always worked into the final sc stitch of the adjacent row.

Row 7 PLT Join in the adjacent Cahlista row, and continue in pattern.

Square No. 6

Work as for Square No. 2, joining yarn in corner sp of Square No. 5 and then working as for previous squares, and joining with PLT Join to Square No. 3 before each RS Row. Remember to work your PLT in the sc st at the end of the adjacent row.

Square No. 7

Work as for Square No. 3. No PLT Join for this square.

Square No. 8

Work as for Square No. 4. No PLT Join for this square.

Squares No. 9-12

Work as for Squares No. 5-8. Now your blanket looks like the one below! Hopefully you’ve weaved in your ends though haha. I used Surgeon’s Knots – YouTube – and they do not come undone. You can weave them in or knot them – your choice.

Square No. 13

Note: This is the trickiest type of square because you need to PLT Join before every row. I made a little diagram to show what to for Row 1.

Row 1 Join River Washed XL with ss in the first ch-sp of Row 1 on Square No. 10, where the green dot is in the diagram below, ch73, PLT Join in the outside sc on Row 1 of Square No. 3, where the red dot is in the diagram below. Ch1, sc in fourth ch from hook and work across as for previous squares.

Rows 2-35 PLT Join in outside sc of adjacent row on completed square, and work across in pattern. Note: You will PLT Join before every row to join this square to both Square No. 3 and 10.

Square No. 14

Work as for Square No. 6.

Square No. 15

Work as for Square No. 7.

Square No. 16

Work as for Square 8, making PLT Join before each RS row to join across Square No. 11 as follows: Join River Washed XL with ss in first ch-sp on Square No. 13, ch2, PLT Join, sc in same ch-sp, and work across in pattern. Continue square, making PLT Join before every RS row.

I’m dropping the Numbered Schematic here again so you don’t have to scroll as far.

Square No. 17 and 18

Work as for Square No. 5 and 6

Square No. 19

Work as for Square No. 13

Square No. 20

Work as for Square No. 18.

Square No. 21-24, Square No. 25-28, and Square No. 29-32

Work as for Square No. 17-20.

Square No. 33-36

Work as for Square 13.

And you are done with the blanket body! Here are some more pics.

Border

At this point you can add any border. I worked up a small 4-round border.

Rnd 1 Join Cahlista with ss in upper right corner sp, * (sc, ch1, sc) in corner sp, (ch1, sc in next ch-sp) across to next corner, ch1, rep from * 3 times, ss in first sc.

Rnd 2 * (Sc, ch1, sc) in corner sp, ch1, sc in next ch-sp) across to next corner, ch1, rep from * 3 times, ss in first sc.

Switch to smaller hook (4mm).

Rnd 3 Beg dc in corner sp (see Stitch Guide), (ch3, 2dc in same sp, 2dc in all ch-sps across to next corner, 2dc in corner sp) 4 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc.

Rnd 4 (3sc in corner sp, sc in all sts across to next corner) 4 times, ss in first sc, cut yarn and finish off.

Hope you enjoyed this one! I had a goofy grin on my face the whole time I was working on it!

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee in my Etsy Shop and on Ravelry. Coloring pages for layouts are also included.

Pin this Pattern!

Linen Stitch Blanket Pattern Series

Have a look at the other blankets in this series! They are all free patterns, releasing each month from May through September.

French Braid Blanket
Zendoodle Blanket // Rectangle Version
LissMiss Blanket (This post)
Beach Hut Blanket (Coming August 31)
Chevronnie Blanket (Coming September 30)

Runway Square Free Crochet Pattern – FATW5 CAL, Week 19

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, beautiful crafter! Remember when I released the Equinox Square as part of the Friends Around the World CAL? Well I have another square in the CAL, and it releases today! Meet the Runway Square.

My design, Runway Square, is being featured on Week 19 of the fifth annual Friends Around the World CAL, hosted in the CAL – Crochet A Long Facebook group. And PS the CAL calendar and CALs A to Z pages on their website are so helpful and amazing. Check out the CAL – Crochet A Long website for more great makes!

Here’s the CAL Crochet A Long website blog post!

Social Media Sharing

Hashtag #runwaysquare / #FATW5 / #cypresstextiles

Here is the Ravelry Link for Runway

Runway Square

The Runway Square is perfect for when you need a lacy motif that is not too delicate. There is a lot of integrity in the square, and yet it retains that open look. To create something engaging and still simple, I have kept the more complex portions at the center of the square, and the outer rounds can be worked while watching your favorite show.

Here is Runway with her sister Equinox – I enjoyed designing these FATW5 squares so much!

Check them out in full color!

Details and Materials

Notions & Sizing
US Size 5mm hook, Tapestry needle for weaving ends
Measurements Motif measures 12in
Yarn is Scheepjes Cahlista – you will need 2 balls

Order Scheepjes Cahlista

Order from these affiliate links to support CypressTextiles at no additional cost to you, or head to the Scheepjes website to find a retailer near you!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Scroll down for UK Terms.

2dccl (yoh, insert hook in st/sp indicated, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps
dc3tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 4 lps
ch chain
cl cluster
beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch 1) – counts as 1 dc
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
MR make ring: ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
RS/WS right side/wrong side of work
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
yoh yarn over hook

Video

Here is the video for this square! Video by Tania Leis

Instructions

I will add in step by step pics as I create them.

Rnd 1 MR, beg dc, (2dc, ch5, dc) 4 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [12 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 Sc in next st, * ch3, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in ch-sp, ch3, sk1, sc, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [24 dc, 4 sc, 12 sp]

Rnd 3 Ss in first 2 chs, sc in same ch-sp, (sc in 3 sts, 5sc in next ch-sp, sc in 3 sts, sc in next ch-sp, ch5, sc in next ch-sp) 4 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [52 sc, 4 sp]

Rnd 4 Sc in next st, * ch3, sk2, 3dc in next st, (sk1, 3dc in next st) 2 times, ch3, sk2, sc, ch5, sk 2 sc, sc in next st, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [36 dc, 8 sc, 12 sp]

Rnd 5 Ss in first 2 chs, sc in same ch-sp, * (ch3, dc3tog over next 3 sts) 3 times, ch3, sc in next ch-sp, ch3, sc around both ch-5 sps from Rounds 3 and 4 – treating them as 1, ch3, sc in next ch-sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [12 dc3tog, 12 sc, 24 sp]

Rnd 6 3sc in first ch-sp * (2hdc, 3dc) in next sp, ch3, (3dc, 2hdc) in next sp, 3sc in next sp, 3dc in next sp, fpdc around sc from previous Rnd, 3dc in next sp, 3sc in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final 3sc, ss in first sc. [4 fpdc, 48 dc, 16 hdc, 24 sc, 4 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in next st, beg dc, * (ch1, sk1, dc) 2 times, ch1, sk1, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in corner ch-sp, (ch1, sk1, dc) 9 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [60 dc, 52 sp]

Rnd 8 Ss in first ch, (beg dc, dc) in next st – counts as 1 2dccl, * (ch1, 2dccl in next dc) 2 times, ch1, (2dccl in corner ch-sp, ch1) 4 times, ch1, sk1, 2dccl, (ch1, 2dccl in next dc) 10 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final 2dccl, ss in first full dc. [68 2dccl, 68 sp]

Rnds 9 and 10 (Sc in next ch-sp, ch3) around entire square. [68 sc, 68 sp]

Rnd 11 * (Sc in next ch-sp, ch3) 4 times, sc in same ch-sp, (ch3, sc in next ch-sp) 13 times, ch3, rep from * 3 times, ss in first sc. [72 sc, 72 sp]

Rnd 12 (2sc in next 3 ch-sps, 5sc in corner ch-sp, 2sc in next 14 ch-sps) 4 times, ss in first sc, cut yarn and finish off. [156 sc]

Optional Round 13 to obtain size can be worked in sc, hdc or dc:

OPTIONAL Rnd 13 *sc in next 8sc, 5sc in corner sc, sc in next 30sc* rep from * 4 times, ss in first sc, cut yarn and finish off. [172 sc]

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Scroll up for US Terms.

2trcl (yoh, insert hook in st/sp indicated, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps
tr3tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 4 lps
ch chain
cl cluster
beg beginning
beg tr (dc, ch 1) – counts as 1 tr
tr treble crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
MR make ring: ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
RS/WS right side/wrong side of work
dc double crochet
sp space
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

I will add in step by step pics as I create them.

Rnd 1 MR, beg tr, (2tr, ch5, tr) 4 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [12 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 Dc in next st, * ch3, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-sp, ch3, miss 1 st, dc, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [24 tr, 4 dc, 12 sp]

Rnd 3 Ss in first 2 chs, dc in same ch-sp, (dc in 3 sts, 5dc in next ch-sp, dc in 3 sts, dc in next ch-sp, ch5, dc in next ch-sp) 4 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [52 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 4 Dc in next st, * ch3, miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st, (miss 1 st, 3tr in next st) 2 times, ch3, miss 2 sts, dc, ch5, miss 2 dc, dc in next st, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [36 tr, 8 dc, 12 sp]

Rnd 5 Ss in first 2 chs, dc in same ch-sp, * (ch3, tr3tog over next 3 sts) 3 times, ch3, dc in next ch-sp, ch3, dc around both ch-5 sps from Rounds 3 and 4 – treating them as 1, ch3, dc in next ch-sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [12 tr3tog, 12 dc, 24 sp]

Rnd 6 3dc in first ch-sp * (2htr, 3tr) in next sp, ch3, (3tr, 2htr) in next sp, 3dc in next sp, 3tr in next sp, fptr around dc from previous Rnd, 3tr in next sp, 3dc in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final 3dc, ss in first dc. [4 fptr, 48 tr, 16 htr, 24 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in next st, beg tr, * (ch1, miss 1 st, tr) 2 times, ch1, miss 1 st, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in corner ch-sp, (ch1, miss 1 st, tr) 9 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [60 tr, 52 sp]

Rnd 8 Ss in first ch, (beg tr, tr) in next st – counts as 1 2trcl, * (ch1, 2trcl in next tr) 2 times, ch1, (2trcl in corner ch-sp, ch1) 4 times, ch1, miss 1 st, 2trcl, (ch1, 2trcl in next tr) 10 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final 2trcl, ss in first full tr. [68 2trcl, 68 sp]

Rnds 9 and 10 (Dc in next ch-sp, ch3) around entire square. [68 dc, 68 sp]

Rnd 11 * (Dc in next ch-sp, ch3) 4 times, dc in same ch-sp, (ch3, dc in next ch-sp) 13 times, ch3, rep from * 3 times, ss in first dc. [72 dc, 72 sp]

Rnd 12 (2dc in next 3 ch-sps, 5dc in corner ch-sp, 2dc in next 14 ch-sps) 4 times, ss in first dc, cut yarn and finish off. [156 dc]

Optional Round 13 to obtain size can be worked in dc, htr or tr:

OPTIONAL Rnd 13 *dc in next 8dc, 5dc in corner dc, dc in next 30dc* rep from * 4 times, ss in first dc, cut yarn and finish off. [172 dc]

Pin this square!

Hope you enjoy this square!

Happy Crafting as always!

Rachele C.

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LissMiss Crochet Blanket: Reviving a Work In Progress

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hey, lovely! Today I want to reveal a WIP that I have had in the works since late 2013. Mind you, my design career started in 2012, so this puppy has been waiting since the beginning of my designer days. I was just a baby! But I had a seed of an idea… And that seed grew into the LissMiss Blanket, the third blanket in my Linen Stitch Blanket Series.

You can now purchase this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry, or see the free version here!

Here are the first two blankets:

First let’s talk about how I planted that LissMiss seed.

My Knitting Days

Before I learned to crochet, I was a knitter! You may not have known that, but I taught myself to knit in college – from books, as YouTube was in its infancy – and one of the first things I made was something that I really connected with. I loved the bright, randomized colors and the geometric, striped look. This pattern was the No-Sew Mitered Square Afghan (an alternate construction method for the Psychedelic Square Afghan).

I worked it up using the no-sew tips from the Mason-Dixon Knitting site, but I never ended up mattress stitching everything together to finish. The colors and the design reminded me of my former self and I knew I had to create something to bring the pieces back to life.

In 2014, I dug those squares out of the UFO (unfinished object) bin, and crocheted them together. I even filled in granny squares on some of them that were incomplete, as I was a full-blown crocheter already at that time. I may have knitted my way through college, but after I graduated, I picked up a hook and never looked back.

Side note: If you want to watch me try to remember how to knit after over a decade of purely crochet every day, watch this YouTube video… It only took me 6 minutes to remember what to do.

So, here is how the squares looked all crocheted together. You can head to this blog post if you want to read about what it was like collaborating with my former self – and in a totally different craft at that! I made three of these blankets from the squares, and it was a delightful experience.

Crochet Mitered Square

In 2013, before I even thought to crochet my knitted mitered squares together, I was inspired to create my own linen stitch mitered square. I even named it after the concept – Linen Stitch Mitered Square (LSMS) turned to LissMiss, and the first little seed of the LissMiss Blanket was planted.

Here is the first prototype I made in 2013. I even posted about it on Instagram in November 2013! Seven years and it’s still in the works. After I made this prototype, the idea went into hibernation.

First Revival Attempt

In 2016, I tried to revive this project by working up some squares using Scheepjes Colour Crafter that I had on hand. I ended up with this sample, and I quite liked it!

I even took the time to write up some notes and work out the kinks on making the LissMiss Blanket completely no sew! You can use an invisible join like a mattress stitch type join, but I think the best and most seamless way to make the blanket is by having the design be 100% no sew.

You can read all about my experience working up these samples, here at this blog post. Pick up Scheepjes Colour Crafter at Wool Warehouse (affiliate link) or browse for a Scheepjes retailer near you!

Back to Present Day

Alright, the year is 2020 and I finally found the time to create my Linen Stitch Blanket Series, the third of which is my LissMiss Blanket. Finally! I had 1 ball of each color of Scheepjes River Washed XL in my stash, so I decided to use that, but it wouldn’t have been able to stretch very far for a blanket as the range has 22 colors at this time.

Side note: Remember when they added 8 new colors?? Check that blog post out! Super neat! These are the 8 new colors Scheepjes added to the River Washed range, but of course, I used River Washed XL in my LissMiss Blanket.

Also in my stash, I had a bunch of Scheepjes Cahlista, and the gears in my head started turning… Would they work together to help create a larger blanket thank I could make if I just used the River Washed XL alone? I couldn’t help but work up a sample with a size 5mm hook, and YEP they work beautifully together!

Shop Scheepjes River Washed XL

Shop Scheepjes Cahlista

I estimate I will use 14 balls of color 106.

The marriage of River Washed XL and Cahlista was lovely, and I have enjoyed working on this blanket so much.

Work In Progress Photos

I took an abundance of photos of this blanket in progress, but here are a few selected ones. In the photo below, you can kind of see how the 4-square module comes together – totally no-sew!

The way that the bright crisp white Cahlista interacts with the artsy and mottled River Washed XL is really a sight to behold. The River Washed XL has a slight halo, and the smooth white cotton really contrasts that in a lovely way.

One of the things I love about River Washed is that no two colors are created equal. Some colors are two-tone, and some are solid. You can see details in this close-up of River Washed.

Isn’t this a beauty?? I’m in love!

And here is a photo of the blanket as it grows. I am just putting the colors completely randomly, and I’m digging it! When the blanket is finished, the white squares will make a nine-patch, so I will be going around this center piece with another round of mitered squares to finish up.

I love the close-up showing the texture of the miter.

The drape and texture of this blanket are amazing already. With the thicker weight yarns, it is already large enough to drape across my legs as I work on it. Even in the Houston heat, that is something I really enjoy – my favorite stage of a blanket in progress: the wearable stage!

Adding on to make that nine-patch of white squares. Can you see it taking shape?

Well, I hope you enjoyed a little sneak peek into the behind the scenes of the LissMiss Blanket that will be released as a free pattern – the third in my Linen Stitch Blanket Series – on Friday, 8/21.

Thank you for reading, and as always, Happy Crafting to you!

Rachele C.

2020 VVCAL Border – Fits Any Blanket!

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, and a huge welcome to Week 19 of the 2020 Vibrant Vintage Crochet-A-Long (VVCAL)! This week we are working half of the border – the first 3 rounds. But I will share the entire border in this post. Many have already started on the border or even finished their blanket! There are a lot of gorgeous makes out there to look to for inspiration.

Side note: I have an awesome feature on the CAL – Crochet A Long website for anyone who would like to see my free crochet square pattern Equinox (Week 18 of the #FATW5 CAL)

Announcement

I have made a huge bundle of all of my VVCAL related patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:

101 VVCAL squares, all with the same final stitch count – mix and match!
9 Joining methods – Celtic Lace Join, Original, Junior, Mini, and Mini II / Whip st join / SC JAYG and Continuous JAYG with PLT Join / Granny Stitch JAYG and Continuous JAYG
3 Lace Borders

The full 2020 VVCAL PDF pattern is up on Ravelry and Etsy! Includes entire pattern – squares, join, and border, and BOTH US and UK Terms PDFs are included. Yay!! The response has been overwhelming. I humbly thank you for your support.

What to Expect Today

2020 VVCAL Border pattern in US and UK Terms
Instructions to fit this border on any blanket!

Colorways

There are 4 versions with their own posts, all in Scheepjes Yarns:

Social Media Hashtags: #VVCAL and #CypressTextiles

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook Motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

Measurements and Materials

Measurements: Blanket will measure about 64x72in for all colorways/yarns
Gauge: Squares measure 4.25in for Catona, 6in for Colour Crafter, 4.5in for Stone Washed/River Washed
Notions: US Size 3mm hook for Catona, 4.25mm hook for Colour Crafter, 3mm for Stone Washed’/River Washed
Yarn: Scheepjes Catona or Scheepjes Colour Crafter or Stone Washed/River Washed (See Main Info Page for quantity and colors)

Order Yarn for “Catona Colour Pack” Colorway

Find the Catona 10g Colour Pack at one of these shops.

Find the 14 balls of 50g Catona No. 105 at one of these shops.

Or you can head to the Scheepjes website to find a retailer near you!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: Scroll down for UK Terms.

2dccl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw yarn through 3 lps
4dc-pcorn 4dc in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in first dc, grab lp, pull lp through to close popcorn
2trcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st, yoh, pull up lp, (yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh, draw yarn through 3 lps
beg beginning
beg 2trcl (beg tr, tr) in st/sp – Counts as 1 2trcl
beg 4dc-pcorn (beg dc, 3dc) in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in beg dc, grab lp, pull lp through to close popcorn – Counts as 1 4dc-pcorn
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
picot ch3, sc in top side bars of previous st
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Chart

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (US Terms)

Find instructions to fit this border to any blanket right after instruction for Round .

Rnd 1 Join border color with ss in top right corner sp of blanket, (3sc in corner sp, sc 239 evenly across short side of blanket as follows: 3sc in every ch-sp skipping the sc sts, and where two square corners are joined, place 1 sc in each corner space, and put 1 sc in each dc, adding or subtracting the few sts it will take to get the correct st count – 3sc in corner sp, work 329 sc evenly across side as for short side) 2 times, ss in first sc. [1148 sc]

Note: Instructions to Fit This Border to Any Blanket

In order to add this border to any blanket, revise stitch count of Rnd 1 of the border as follows:

When counting from corner st to corner st of the blanket side, including both corner sts in this count: make a multiple of 18sc plus 9.

For example, 18 x 12 + 9 = 225, so 225 is a possible stitch count for a side of the blanket, counting from corner st to corner st, including both corners in the count. 18 x 15 + 9 = 279, so 279 would work for a side.

In this way, you can make Round 1 of the border, and then the other 4 rnds will fit perfectly.

Photo breakdown for Rnd 1

Beginning of Round 1:

End of Round 1:

Rnd 2 ** 3sc in corner st, * sc, sk2, 2trcl in next st, (ch2, 2trcl in same st) 3 times, sk2, sc in next 2 sts, (ch2, sk1, sc) 5 times, rep from * across until 8 sc remain of side, sc, sk2, 2trcl in next st, (ch2, 2trcl in same st) 3 times, sk2, sc, rep from ** 3 times, ss in first sc.

Photo breakdown for Round 2

Beginning of Round 2:

How the side repeat of Round 2 looks:

Approaching corner of Round 2 – work until 8 sc remain:

Start corner of Round 2:

End of Round 2:

Note before you start Round 3: If you have used the Catona 10g Colour Pack, you have an option to make Round 3 using the remnants from the squares – Simply work the round using remnants that are similar in color family to the squares on the outer edge of the blanket. The color doesn’t have to be exact, just in the same color family. It’s better if the color placement is slightly off as you aren’t looking for perfection here.

Change color by dropping and cutting the old color and drawing the new color through on the final step of the last st in the old color. For example: if the last st of your old color is a 2trcl, when you are about to draw the yarn through 3 loops on the hook to close the cluster, cut the old yarn and drop it, grab the new color and draw it through instead. Then continue on with the border until that color is finished or until you want to change colors again.

Rnd 3 ** 3sc in corner st, * 4tr in ch-2 sp, ch2, (4dc-pcorn, ch2, 4dc-pcorn) in next sp, ch2, 4tr in next sp, sc in next sp, (ch2, sc in next sp) 4 times, rep from * until 4 2trcl remain on side, 4tr in ch-2 sp, ch2, (4dc-pcorn, ch2, 4dc-pcorn) in next sp, ch2, 4tr in next sp, rep from ** 3 times, ss in first sc.

Photo breakdown of Round 3

Beginning of Round 3:

How the side repeat of Round 3 looks:

Approaching the corner of Round 3 – work until 4 2trcl remain:

End of Round 3:

Rnd 4 Beg 4dc-pcorn in corner st, ** ch2, 4dc-pcorn in same st, sk 1 tr, * (dc in next tr, ch1) 2 times, dc in next tr, sk 1 sp, 2dccl in next sp, (ch2, 2dccl in same sp) 2 times, dc in next tr, (ch1, dc in next tr) 3 times, sc in next sp, (ch2, sc in next sp) 3 times, dc in next tr, ch1, rep from * across until start of final “shell” of side, (dc in next tr, ch1) 2 times, dc in next tr, sk 1 sp, 2dccl in next sp, (ch2, 2dccl in same sp) 2 times, dc in next tr, (ch1, dc in next tr) 2 times, 4dc-pcorn in corner st, rep from ** 3 times omitting final 4dc-pcorn, ss in beg 4dc-pcorn.

Photo breakdown of Round 4

Beginning of Round 4:

How the beginning corner and side repeat look for Round 4:

Approaching the corner on Round 4:

End of Round 4:

Rnd 5 Beg 2trcl in corner sp, ** (ch3, sc in third st from hook – Picot made, 2trcl in same sp) 3 times, sk 1 dc, * 2dccl in next dc, Picot, 2dccl in next dc, 4sc in ch-2 sp, Picot, 4sc in next ch-2 sp, 2dccl in next dc, (Picot, 2dccl in next dc) 3 times, sc in ch-2 sp, (sc, Picot, sc) in next sp, sc in next sp, (2dccl in next dc, Picot) 2 times, rep from * across side until start of final “shell” is reached, 2dccl in next dc, Picot, 2dccl in next dc, 4sc in ch-2 sp, Picot, 4sc in next ch-2 sp, 2dccl in next dc, Picot, 2dccl in next dc, 2trcl in corner sp, rep from ** 3 times omitting final 2trcl, ss in beg 2trcl, cut yarn and weave ends.

Photo breakdown for Round 5

Beginning of Round 5:

How the side repeat of Round 5 looks:

Corner of Round 5:

End of Round 5:

Instructions to Fit This Border to Any Blanket

In order to add this border to any blanket, revise stitch count of Rnd 1 of the border as follows:

When counting from corner st to corner st of the blanket side, including both corner sts in this count: make a multiple of 18sc plus 9.

In this way, you can make Round 1 of the border, and then the other 4 rnds will fit perfectly.

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Note: Scroll up for US Terms.

2dtrcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st, yoh, pull up lp, (yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh, draw yarn through 3 lps
2trcl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw yarn through 3 lps
4tr-pcorn 4tr in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in first dc, grab lp, pull lp through to close popcorn
beg beginning
beg 2dtrcl (beg dtr, dtr) in st/sp – Counts as 1 2dtrcl
beg 4tr-pcorn (beg tr, 3tr) in st/sp indicated, remove lp from hook, insert hook in beg tr, grab lp, pull lp through to close popcorn – Counts as 1 4tr-pcorn
beg tr (dc, ch1) – counts as 1 tr
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
dtr double treble crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
picot ch3, dc in top side bars of previous st
rep repeat
rnd round
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Chart

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (UK Terms)

Find instructions to fit this border to any blanket right after instruction for Round .

Rnd 1 Join border color with ss in top right corner sp of blanket, (3dc in corner sp, dc 239 evenly across short side of blanket as follows: 3dc in every ch-sp skipping the dc sts, and where two square corners are joined, place 1 dc in each corner space, and put 1 dc in each tr, adding or subtracting the few sts it will take to get the correct st count – 3dc in corner sp, work 329 dc evenly across side as for short side) 2 times, ss in first dc. [1148 dc]

Instructions to Fit This Border to Any Blanket

In order to add this border to any blanket, revise stitch count of Rnd 1 of the border as follows:

When counting from corner st to corner st of the blanket side, including both corner sts in this count: make a multiple of 18dc plus 9.

In this way, you can make Round 1 of the border, and then the other 4 rnds will fit perfectly.

Photo breakdown for Rnd 1

Beginning of Round 1:

End of Round 1:

Rnd 2 ** 3dc in corner st, * dc, sk2, 2dtrcl in next st, (ch2, 2dtrcl in same st) 3 times, sk2, dc in next 2 sts, (ch2, sk1, dc) 5 times, rep from * across until 8 dc remain of side, dc, sk2, 2dtrcl in next st, (ch2, 2dtrcl in same st) 3 times, sk2, dc, rep from ** 3 times, ss in first dc.

Photo breakdown for Round 2

Beginning of Round 2:

How the side repeat of Round 2 looks:

Approaching corner of Round 2 – work until 8 sc remain:

Start corner of Round 2:

End of Round 2:

Rnd 3 ** 3dc in corner st, * 4dtr in ch-2 sp, ch2, (4tr-pcorn, ch2, 4tr-pcorn) in next sp, ch2, 4dtr in next sp, dc in next sp, (ch2, dc in next sp) 4 times, rep from * until 4 2dtrcl remain on side, 4dtr in ch-2 sp, ch2, (4tr-pcorn, ch2, 4tr-pcorn) in next sp, ch2, 4dtr in next sp, rep from ** 3 times, ss in first dc.

Photo breakdown of Round 3

Beginning of Round 3:

How the side repeat of Round 3 looks:

Approaching the corner of Round 3 – work until 4 2trcl remain:

End of Round 3:

Rnd 4 Beg 4tr-pcorn in corner st, ** ch2, 4tr-pcorn in same st, sk 1 dtr, * (tr in next dtr, ch1) 2 times, tr in next dtr, sk 1 sp, 2trcl in next sp, (ch2, 2trcl in same sp) 2 times, tr in next dtr, (ch1, tr in next dtr) 3 times, dc in next sp, (ch2, dc in next sp) 3 times, tr in next dtr, ch1, rep from * across until start of final “shell” of side, (tr in next dtr, ch1) 2 times, tr in next dtr, sk 1 sp, 2trcl in next sp, (ch2, 2trcl in same sp) 2 times, tr in next dtr, (ch1, tr in next dtr) 2 times, 4tr-pcorn in corner st, rep from ** 3 times omitting final 4tr-pcorn, ss in beg 4tr-pcorn.

Photo breakdown of Round 4

Beginning of Round 4:

How the beginning corner and side repeat look for Round 4:

Approaching the corner on Round 4:

End of Round 4:

Rnd 5 Beg 2dtrcl in corner sp, ** (ch3, dc in third st from hook – Picot made, 2dtrcl in same sp) 3 times, sk 1 tr, * 2trcl in next tr, Picot, 2trcl in next tr, 4dc in ch-2 sp, Picot, 4dc in next ch-2 sp, 2trcl in next tr, (Picot, 2trcl in next tr) 3 times, dc in ch-2 sp, (dc, Picot, dc) in next sp, dc in next sp, (2trcl in next tr, Picot) 2 times, rep from * across side until start of final “shell” is reached, 2trcl in next tr, Picot, 2trcl in next tr, 4dc in ch-2 sp, Picot, 4dc in next ch-2 sp, 2trcl in next tr, Picot, 2trcl in next tr, 2dtrcl in corner sp, rep from ** 3 times omitting final 2dtrcl, ss in beg 2dtrcl, cut yarn and weave ends.

Photo breakdown for Round 5

Beginning of Round 5:

How the side repeat of Round 5 looks:

Corner of Round 5:

End of Round 5:

Instructions to Fit This Border to Any Blanket

In order to add this border to any blanket, revise stitch count of Rnd 1 of the border as follows:

When counting from corner st to corner st of the blanket side, including both corner sts in this count: make a multiple of 18dc plus 9.

In this way, you can make Round 1 of the border, and then the other 4 rnds will fit perfectly.

Thank you so much for stopping in for Week 19 of the 2020 VVCAL!

Happy Crafting,

Rachele C. – The Art of Crochet Blankets

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook – motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

You may also enjoy these completed CALs

Equinox Square Free Crochet Pattern – FATW5 CAL, Week 18

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, beautiful crafter! Today I have another special surprise just in time for Granny Square Day 2020. I mentioned in my last post, the free Kurinji Square, that I would have another surprise.

Well, my design, Equinox Square, is being featured on Week 18 of the fifth annual Friends Around the World CAL, hosted in the CAL – Crochet A Long Facebook group. And PS the CAL calendar and CALs A to Z pages on their website are so helpful and amazing. Check out the CAL – Crochet A Long website for more great makes!

Here’s the CAL Crochet A Long website blog post!

Social Media Sharing

Hashtag #equinoxsquare / #FATW5 / #grannysquareday2020 / #cypresstextiles

Here is the Ravelry Link for Equinox

Equinox Square

Equinox is a bold floral square that is perfect for any season. You’re sure to enjoy the fun petals at the center and the leafy final border rounds are so simple and satisfying. I enjoyed designing this one, and I hope you love making it!

Details and Materials

Notions & Sizing
US Size 5mm hook, Tapestry needle for weaving ends
Measurements Motif measures 12in
Yarn is Scheepjes Cahlista – you will need 2 balls

Order Scheepjes Cahlista

Order from these affiliate links to support CypressTextiles at no additional cost to you, or head to the Scheepjes website to find a retailer near you!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Scroll down for UK Terms.

2trcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st/sp indicated, (yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh draw yarn through 3 lps
ch chain
beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch 1) – counts as 1 dc
beg tr (sc, ch 2) – counts as 1 tr
cl cluster
dc double crochet
dc2tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps
dc3tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 4 lps
dc4tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 5 lps
dc5tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 6 lps
lp(s) loop(s)
MR make ring: ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
RS/WS right side/wrong side of work
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
tog together
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Video

Here is the video for this square! Video by Tania Leis

Instructions

Rnd 1 MR, beg dc, 15dc, close ring, ss in beg dc, fasten end well. [16 dc]

Rnd 2 (Beg tr, tr) in next st – counts as 1 2trcl, (ch2, 2trcl) 15 times, ch2, ss in first full tr. [16 2trcl, 16 sp]

Rnd 3 3sc in all ch-sps around, ss in first sc. [48 sc]

Rnd 4 Beg dc in next st (4dc in same st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st) 16 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [80 dc]

Rnd 5 Beg dc in same st as join, dc4tog – counts as 1 dc5tog, (ch5, dc5tog) 15 times, ch5, ss in dc4tog. [16 dc5tog, 16 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg dc in ch-sp, * (2dc, ch1, 3dc) in same ch-sp, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, rep from * 15 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [96 dc, 32 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in next 2 sts, (sc in ch-sp, ch3) 32 times, ss in first sc. [32 sc, 32 sp]

Rnd 8 * 3sc in ch-sp, 3dc in next 2 ch-sps, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-sp, 3dc in next 2 ch-sps, 3sc in next 2 ch-sps, rep from * 3 times, ss in first sc. [24 tr, 48 dc, 36 sc, 4 sp]

Rnd 9 (Sc in next 11 sts, 3sc in corner ch-sp, sc in next 16 sts) 4 times, ss in first sc. [120 sc]

Rnd 10 Ss in next 2 sts, (beg dc, 2dc) in next st, * (sk2, 3dc in net st) 2 times, sk2, 9dc in corner st, (sk2, 3dc in next st) 7 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final 3dc, ss in beg dc. [144 dc]

Rnd 11 Beg dc in same st as join, dc2tog – counts as 1 dc3tog, * (ch2, dc3tog) 4 times, ch3, sc in third ch from hook – counts as 1 picot, (ch2, dc3tog) 8 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc3tog, ch2, ss in dc2tog. [4 picot, 48 dc3tog, 48 sp]

Rnd 12 (3sc in next 4 ch-sps, 3sc in picot, 3sc in next 8 ch-sps) 4 times, ss in first sc, cut yarn and finish off. [156 sc]

Optional Round 13 to obtain size can be worked in sc, hdc or dc:

Rnd 13 (dc in next 12 sts, 3dc in corner st, dc in next 26 sts) 4 times, ss in first dc. [164 dc]

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Scroll up for US Terms.

2dtrcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st/sp indicated, (yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh draw yarn through 3 lps
ch chain
beg beginning
beg tr (dc, ch 1) – counts as 1 tr
beg dtr (dc, ch 2) – counts as 1 dtr
cl cluster
tr treble crochet
tr2tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps
tr3tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 4 lps
tr4tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 5 lps
tr5tog (yoh, insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 6 lps
lp(s) loop(s)
MR make ring: ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
RS/WS right side/wrong side of work
dc double crochet
sp space
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
tog together
dtr double treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Rnd 1 MR, beg tr, 15tr, close ring, ss in beg tr, fasten end well. [16 tr]

Rnd 2 (Beg dtr, dtr) in next st – counts as 1 2dtrcl, (ch2, 2dtrcl) 15 times, ch2, ss in first full dtr. [16 2dtrcl, 16 sp]

Rnd 3 3dc in all ch-sps around, ss in first dc. [48 dc]

Rnd 4 Beg tr in next st (4tr in same st, miss 2 sts, tr in next st) 16 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [80 tr]

Rnd 5 Beg tr in same st as join, tr4tog – counts as 1 tr5tog, (ch5, tr5tog) 15 times, ch5, ss in tr4tog. [16 tr5tog, 16 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg tr in ch-sp, * (2tr, ch1, 3tr) in same ch-sp, ch1, tr in next ch-sp, rep from * 15 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [96 tr, 32 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in next 2 sts, (dc in ch-sp, ch3) 32 times, ss in first dc. [32 dc, 32 sp]

Rnd 8 * 3dc in ch-sp, 3tr in next 2 ch-sps, (3dtr, ch3, 3dtr) in next ch-sp, 3tr in next 2 ch-sps, 3dc in next 2 ch-sps, rep from * 3 times, ss in first dc. [24 dtr, 48 tr, 36 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 9 (Dc in next 11 sts, 3dc in corner ch-sp, dc in next 16 sts) 4 times, ss in first dc. [120 dc]

Rnd 10 Ss in next 2 sts, (beg tr, 2tr) in next st, * (miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st) 2 times, miss 2 sts, 9tr in corner st, (miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st) 7 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final 3tr, ss in beg tr. [144 tr]

Rnd 11 Beg tr in same st as join, tr2tog – counts as 1 tr3tog, * (ch2, tr3tog) 4 times, ch3, dc in third ch from hook – counts as 1 picot, (ch2, tr3tog) 8 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr3tog, ch2, ss in tr2tog. [4 picot, 48 tr3tog, 48 sp]

Rnd 12 (3dc in next 4 ch-sps, 3dc in picot, 3dc in next 8 ch-sps) 4 times, ss in first dc, cut yarn and finish off. [156 dc]

Optional Round 13 to obtain size can be worked in dc, htr or tr:

Rnd 13 (tr in next 12 sts, 3tr in corner st, tr in next 26 sts) 4 times, ss in first tr. [164 dc]

Hope you enjoy this square! And have a fabulous Granny Square Day! Enjoy posting your squares!

Happy Crafting as always!

Rachele C.

Kurinji Square – Free Crochet Pattern for Granny Square Day

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, again! Today it hit me that I haven’t planned anything for Granny Square Day (August 15th)! So I decided to craft a little square that you can make with 10g of Catona or Stone Washed / River Washed. It has a little color-work too.

This is a square to savor the moment. It’s a square to slow down and love the process. If you’re looking for something quick and zippy, this may not be the one. Of course, after a few, it gets faster because you’ll memorize the pattern, but it’s just not a super fast make, in my opinion. So, this one won’t be for everybody, and that’s okay.

Heads up, I have another Granny Square Day surprise for you tomorrow!! It’s a big one!

Social Media Sharing

Hashtag #kurinjisquare / #grannysquareday2020 / #cypresstextiles

Of course, if you have made any of my VVCAL squares, you can post them on Granny Square Day, August 15, and hashtag #vvcal / #grannysquareday2020 / #cypresstextiles

I just wanted to exercise my design muscles on a nice lacy square for you! I started with my Vienna Square from the 2020 VVCAL as a jump off point, and then just let the creativity flow!

And with that fantastic introduction – lol – I present the Kurinji Square! Named after a flower which only blooms about every 12 years.. I deliberately searched through flowers which are slow to bloom to find a name for this square, because I wanted to honor the patient process.

I have step by step photos for you and I try to explain every detail of construction! But many will benefit from a video, so I will produce one as soon as possible, and add it here. Remember, I decided to design this on the fly today! So I did my best. I really do love this square and I hope you do too.

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I plan to make a blanket using a bunch of extra 10g balls of Stone Washed and River Washed that I have from various Colour Packs I have partially used in the past. Stay Tuned!

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Kurinji Square

Enjoy the slow process of crafting this lacy floral square. Kurinji Square looks best in 2 colors, and is described with the color changes included. You can make 2 squares using 2 x 10g balls of Catona or Stone Washed / River Washed. You can also make 10 squares with 2 x 50g balls of that same yarn.

The pattern is a little rough, but it works! Ask questions in the comments, but a video is coming soon!

Details and Materials

Square measures 5in, unblocked (I won’t block before joining, but you may decide to.)
To make 2 squares, you need 10g each of 2 colors of Scheepjes Catona or Stone Washed or River Washed.
If you want to make just 1 square, I recommend having 6g each of 2 colors, just to be sure you have enough.
3.5mm hook

Order Yarn

Order from these affiliate links to support CypressTextiles at no additional cost to you, or head to the Scheepjes website to find a retailer near you!

Scheepjes Catona 10g Colour Pack (Makes 109 2-color squares)

Scheepjes Catona 50g Balls

Scheepjes Stone Washed / River Washed 10g Colour Pack (Makes 58 2-color squares)

Scheepjes Stone Washed 50g Balls

Color Planning

I have 2 suggestions for using color in this square.

You can choose 2 colors and then just switch them for your 2 squares, so you would use Yarn A for the first color on the first square, and then Yarn B for the first color on the second square.
Or, you can put your colors in order, and then use them in a line. For example, let’s say you are using 5 colors, just to simplify. Yarns A, B, C, D, and E. Here are how you can use the colors:

Square 1: First color – A, Second color – B
Square 2: First color – B, Second color – C
Square 3: First color – C, Second color – D
Square 4: First color – D, Second color – E
Square 5: First color – E, Second color – A

That will allow you to vary your color use throughout the piece, instead of having a lot of predictability with 2 squares using the same 2 colors.

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Scroll down for UK Terms.

2dccl 2 dc cluster: (yoh, insert hook in st indicated, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook
2trcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st indicated, (yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook
pcorn 4dc in st/sp indicated release lp from hook, insert hook front to back through first dc, grab lp, pull lp to front to close popcorn
beg 2dccl (beg dc, dc) all in same st/sp – counts as 1 2dccl
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
beg pcorn (beg dc, 3dc) in st/sp indicated release lp from hook, insert hook front to back through beg dc, grab lp, pull lp to front to close popcorn
ch chain
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR (make ring) ch3, ss in third ch from hook
picot ch3, sc in top side of previous dc
rem remaining
rep repeat
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
sk skip
sp space
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Tip: To avoid having a lot of work when you are finished with the square, weave your ends after each time you cut the yarn.

Rnd 1 Using first color, MR, 8sc, ss in first sc. [8 sc]

Rnd 2 Beg pcorn in next st, (ch10, sk1, pcorn) 3 times, ch10, ss in first ch after beg pcorn, cut yarn and weave ends. [4 pcorn, 4 sp]

Rnd 3 Join second color with ss in one of the skipped sts from Rnd 1, beg 2dccl in same st, (ch2, 2dccl in same st, ch5, 2dccl in next skipped st) 4 times omitting final 2dccl, ss in beg 2dccl. [8 2dccl, 8 sp]

Note: In the photos below, I haven’t cut the first color yet, but I did that afterward.

Rnd 4 Ch2, pull the pcorn forward, and slide the ch-5 sp backward, so you can work into a portion of the ch-10 sp close to the pcorn. In the first photo below, I am ready to make a dc in the ch-10 sp. 5dc in the ch-10 sp, (picot, 5dc in the next ch-10 sp, keeping these dc sts close to the pcorn, ch1, pull the next pcorn through the ch-5 sp, 5dc in the ch-10 sp) 4 times omitting final 5dc, ss in beg dc, cut yarn and weave ends. [4 picot, 40 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 5 (Insert your hook through the ch-2 sp from Rnd 3, under the ch-1 sp from Rnd 4, AND under the floating portion of the 10-ch sp – red arrows below, join the first color with ss around these 3 ch-sps, treating them as 1, sc in the same place, (ch4, sc in the ch-5 sp from Rnd 3 – purple arrows below, ch4) 4 times, ss in first sc. [8 sc, 8 sp]

I didn’t get a final photo of this round – whoops! I will point out this round a bit later on!

Rnd 6 Ss in first 2 chs, sc in ch-4 sp, * ch3, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch3, (2trcl, ch3, 2trcl) in next sc, ch3, sc in next ch4-sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [8 2trcl, 8 sc, 16 sp]

Here is the back of the square at this point! I haven’t woven in ends, because this square took a lot of frogging, but you should weave them in as you go.

And since I forgot that photo earlier, here below you can see the 8 sc of Rnd 5. Yay!

Rnd 7 Ss in first ch, tilt picot toward you and look for the 2 bars of the sc that you closed the picot with from Rnd 4, * insert hook in those 2 bars of the sc AND under the ch-3 sp from Rnd 6, make an sc here to “anchor” the picot to the ch-3 sp, ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp changing color to second color by pulling second color through on the last step of the sc, working over the dropped first color, 2dccl in next ch-3 sp, (ch2, 2dccl in same sp) 3 times, changing back to first color on final step of last 2dccl, drop second color and cut yarn, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [16 2dccl, 12 sc, 20 sp]

Weave in all 8 cut ends of the second color. You are done with the second color at this point.

Rnd 8 Ss in first ch, sc in same ch-3 sp, * ch3, sc between next sc and 2dccl, (ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch3, sc between next 2dccl and sc, (ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 2 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc. [28 sc, 28 sp]

Rnd 9 Ss in first ch, sc in same ch-3 sp, * (ch3, sc in next sp) 2 times, ch5, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch3) 4 times, sc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final sc, ss in first sc, cut yarn and weave in all ends. [28 sc, 28 sp]

Yay! You’re done!

To join blocks: Join on the final round, in the center ch of each ch-sp around. You can use a flat braid style join.

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Scroll up for US Terms.

2trcl (yoh, insert hook in st indicated, yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook
2dtrcl * yoh 2 times, insert hook in st indicated, (yoh, pull up lp, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, rep from * 1 time, yoh, draw yarn through all 3 lps on hook
pcorn 4tr in st/sp indicated release lp from hook, insert hook front to back through first tr, grab lp, pull lp to front to close popcorn
beg 2trcl (beg tr, tr) all in same st/sp – counts as 1 2trcl
beg tr (dc, ch1) – counts as 1 tr
beg pcorn (beg tr, 3tr) in st/sp indicated release lp from hook, insert hook front to back through beg tr, grab lp, pull lp to front to close popcorn
ch chain
dc double crochet
dtr double treble crochet
lp loop
MR (make ring) ch3, ss in third ch from hook
picot ch3, dc in top side of previous tr
rem remaining
rep repeat
ss slip stitch
sk skip
sp space
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Tip: To avoid having a lot of work when you are finished with the square, weave your ends after each time you cut the yarn.

Rnd 1 Using first color, MR, 8dc, ss in first dc. [8 dc]

Rnd 2 Beg pcorn in next st, (ch10, sk1, pcorn) 3 times, ch10, ss in first ch after beg pcorn, cut yarn and weave ends. [4 pcorn, 4 sp]

Rnd 3 Join second color with ss in one of the skipped sts from Rnd 1, beg 2trcl in same st, (ch2, 2trcl in same st, ch5, 2trcl in next skipped st) 4 times omitting final 2trcl, ss in beg 2trcl. [8 2trcl, 8 sp]

Note: In the photos below, I haven’t cut the first color yet, but I did that afterward.

Rnd 4 Ch2, pull the pcorn forward, and slide the ch-5 sp backward, so you can work into a portion of the ch-10 sp close to the pcorn. In the first photo below, I am ready to make a tr in the ch-10 sp. 5tr in the ch-10 sp, (picot, 5tr in the next ch-10 sp, keeping these tr sts close to the pcorn, ch1, pull the next pcorn through the ch-5 sp, 5tr in the ch-10 sp) 4 times omitting final 5tr, ss in beg tr, cut yarn and weave ends. [4 picot, 40 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 5 (Insert your hook through the ch-2 sp from Rnd 3, under the ch-1 sp from Rnd 4, AND under the floating portion of the 10-ch sp – red arrows below, join the first color with ss around these 3 ch-sps, treating them as 1, dc in the same place, (ch4, dc in the ch-5 sp from Rnd 3 – purple arrows below, ch4) 4 times, ss in first dc. [8 dc, 8 sp]

I didn’t get a final photo of this round – whoops! I will point out this round a bit later on!

Rnd 6 Ss in first 2 chs, dc in ch-4 sp, * ch3, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch3, (2dtrcl, ch3, 2dtrcl) in next dc, ch3, dc in next ch4-sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [8 2dtrcl, 8 dc, 16 sp]

Here is the back of the square at this point! I haven’t woven in ends, because this square took a lot of frogging, but you should weave them in as you go.

And since I forgot that photo earlier, here below you can see the 8 dc of Rnd 5. Yay!

Rnd 7 Ss in first ch, tilt picot toward you and look for the 2 bars of the dc that you closed the picot with from Rnd 4, * insert hook in those 2 bars of the dc AND under the ch-3 sp from Rnd 6, make an dc here to “anchor” the picot to the ch-3 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp changing color to second color by pulling second color through on the last step of the dc, working over the dropped first color, 2trcl in next ch-3 sp, (ch2, 2trcl in same sp) 3 times, changing back to first color on final step of last 2trcl, drop second color and cut yarn, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [16 2trcl, 12 dc, 20 sp]

Weave in all 8 cut ends of the second color. You are done with the second color at this point.

Rnd 8 Ss in first ch, dc in same ch-3 sp, * ch3, dc between next dc and 2trcl, (ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch3, dc between next 2trcl and dc, (ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp) 2 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc. [28 dc, 28 sp]

Rnd 9 Ss in first ch, dc in same ch-3 sp, * (ch3, dc in next sp) 2 times, ch5, (dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3) 4 times, dc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in first dc, cut yarn and weave in all ends. [28 dc, 28 sp]

Yay! You’re done!

To join blocks: Join on the final round, in the center ch of each ch-sp around. You can use a flat braid style join.

Hope you enjoy this square! And have a fabulous Granny Square Day! Enjoy posting your squares!

Happy Crafting as always,

Rachele C.

Zendoodle Blanket Rectangle Version – Part 1

Published by Rachele Carmona

So I decided to create a free pattern version for this rectangle Zendoodle as well! It is just as wide as the original Zendoodle, but extended upward to make a big rectangle.

Here are links to the 4 parts of this free rectangle version:

Use this hashtag to keep all of the Zendoodle Blankets progress photos together, whether you make the Original or the Rectangle.

#ZendoodleBlanket

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry.

Zendoodle Blanket – Rectangle Version

Blanket Details

Zendoodle Blanket is an update of a pattern I released in 2015. It is a fun, engaging pattern that explores the geometric possibilities of Linen Stitch. This is the rectangle version, made in Scheepjes Softfun!

Blanket measures about 50x72in
Yarn is Scheepjes Softfun, Softfun Denim, and 1 color of Softfun Aquarel. With yarn options to use only Softfun.
Hook size: 4.25mm hook

Thicker yarn and larger hook will result in a larger blanket.

Important note about hook size: Whichever hook you would normally use for a certain yarn, you should go up a hook size for this project. Linen stitch tends to “pull in” so your project may be too stiff if you use your normal hook size. If you are trying a yarn for the first time, look at the ball band and then go up a hook size from the recommended. For example, if your ball band recommends size 3mm hook, go up to 3.5m.

Yarn Information

Shop through the affiliate links to support CypressTextiles, or head to a Scheepjes Retailer near you!

Scheepjes Softfun (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores / Black Sheep Wools)

Softfun No. 2623 x 3
Softfun No. 2492 x 2
Softfun No. 2617 x 1
Softfun No. 2650 x 3
Softfun No. 2651 x 3
Softfun No. 2634 x 2
Softfun No. 2605 x 2
Softfun No. 2535 x 2
Softfun No. 2640 x 2
Softfun No. 2423 x 2
Softfun No. 2626 x 2
Softfun No. 2515 x 2
Softfun No. 2426 x 1

Scheepjes Softfun Denim (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores)

I also provide comparable Softfun color numbers below, to omit the Denim and Aquarel and use only Softfun.

Softfun Denim No. 510 or Softfun No. 2408 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 505 or Softfun No. 2607 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 506 or Softfun No. 2516 x 3
Softfun Denim No. 517 or Softfun No. 2604 x 2
Softfun Denim No. 516 or Softfun No. 2647 x 2

Scheepjes Softfun Aquarel (Affiliate links: WoolWarehouse / Deramores)

Softfun Aquarel No. 804 – or simply omit and use Softfun No. 2426 in its place x 1

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

chN chain N number of times
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
PLT Join “Pull Loop Through” join (See more info within pattern)
Rep repeat
Rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Choosing a Construction Method

Should you join-as-you-go, or should you sew the separate strips together?

Join-as-you-go Strips: Make Strip 1 complete, and then join all subsequent strips as you go.

Love a no-sew project? This method is for you!
Want to learn my popular PLT Join method? Choose this method!

Sewn Strips: Work all strips complete (separately) and then sew them together when you’re done.

Want to take your project on the go? Choose this method!
Don’t mind a bit of sewing? This method is for you!

Tips for Neat Edges

For neater edges, follow these tips. Please watch the Base Triangle video below, as I explain these tips and demonstrate them. The video is for my French Braid Blanket Base Triangle, but the methods are exactly the same for the Base Triangle of this blanket.

I do not “chain up” for the first sc of the row, so you will work the first sc of the row directly into a chain space without chaining 1.
Be sure to turn your work the same way each time. If you are looking down on your work from the top edge, you will turn the work counter-clockwise. In other words, you will turn the right edge of the piece toward you to flip the work over.
Work “over” the working yarn for your first sc stitch, instead of carrying it up the edge.

Schematic

Strip 1

Note: This strip is worked all the way through from bottom to top, without any joining or sewing.

Step 1: Base Triangle

Row 1 WS Using Softfun No. 2640, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Note: This video is for the Base Triangle of my French Braid Blanket so the size is different, but the methods are the same. I highly recommend watching it to see the techniques.

Step 2: Bow Tie

Note: I started the Base Triangle in this photo a bit differently, just ignore that!

First triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Aquarel No. 804 with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Softfun No. 2426, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing right

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2651 with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Large Triangle, Tail pointing left

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2605 with ss in final sc of second triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, sc in same st, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp of Trapezoid A using photo as a guide, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 5: Parallelogram, Tail pointing left

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2651 in the first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sc of Large Triangle, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern, cut yarn and weave ends. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 6: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in first sp of Row 21 of Parallelogram from Step 5, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-41 Work as for Large Triangle from Step 4. Weave all ends.

Step 7: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing left

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in first sp of Row 21 of Parallelogram from Step 5, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Large Triangle from Step 6, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle from Step 4 stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and finish off. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 8: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 with ss in final sc of Large Triangle from Step 6, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun Aquarel No. 804 with ss in first sp of Row 20 of Trapezoid B from Step 7, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Step 9: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing right

Rows 1-21 With RS facing and using Softfun No. 2617, work as for Trapezoid A from Step 3.

Step 10: Large Triangle, Tail pointing left

Light pink triangle is large triangle. Dark pink fill triangle is made in the next step.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in final sc of second triangle of Bow Tie from Step 8, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp of Trapezoid A from Step 9 using photo as a guide, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-41 Work as for Large Triangle in Step 4. Weave all ends.

Step 11: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing right

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 with ss in final st of Trapezoid from Step 9, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Large Triangle, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle from Step 4 stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and finish off. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 12: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2426 with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 505 with ss in first st, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Step 13: Diamond

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2492 in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Step 14: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in first st, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2–21 Work as for First Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Row 1 With WS facing, join Softfun No. 2623 with ss in first st, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Rows 2-21 Work as for Second Triangle of Bow Tie in Step 2.

Step 15: Fill C

Row 1 With RS facing, join Softfun Denim No. 510 in final st of First Triangle of Bow Tie, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st (ch1, sc) evenly across 9 times, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) evenly across 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of Second Triangle of Bow Tie, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 3-21 Rep Row 2.

Row 22 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 10 times, sc2tog over 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-31 (Sc in next st, ch1) across to ch-sp before center, sc2tog over 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [2 sc, 2 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 32 Sc2tog over 2 sps, cut y arn and weave ends.

Strip 1 is complete!!! I can’t wait to share more with you, but for now, Part 1 is finished!

I hope you enjoy working on your first Strip!

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

Linen Stitch Blanket Pattern Series

Have a look at the other blankets in this series! They are all free patterns, releasing roughly on the last day of each month from May through September.

French Braid Blanket
Zendoodle Blanket (This post)
LissMiss Blanket (Coming August 15)
Beach Hut Blanket (Coming August 31)
Chevronnie Blanket (Coming September 30)

Zendoodle Blanket Free Crochet Pattern – PART 4

Published by Rachele Carmona

Welcome to PART 4 of the second free pattern of my five-blanket Linen Stitch series. Zendoodle Blanket is a pattern you may recognize. I released it in 2015, and five years later it was in need of a huge makeover as well as clarifying and simplification, so now I am re-releasing it as part of this exciting series!

Here are links to the 4 parts of this free pattern:

Part 1: Strip 1
Part 2: Strips 2 and 3
Part 3: Strips 4 and 5
Part 4: Strips 6-8 and Border (This post)

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry. Both square and rectangle version PDFs are included!

Update: I have started a rectangle version tutorial also and it will be a 4-part series like this one! Check out Part 1! Here’s what that schematic looks like – it’s in Scheepjes Softfun ranges.

Note: If you have previously purchased my Zendoodle Blanket on Etsy or Ravelry, I will send the updated PDF as soon as I am finished with it. Thank you!

Use this hashtag to keep all of the Zendoodle Blankets progress photos together.

#ZendoodleBlanket

Coming soon! Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry. Coloring pages for layouts are also included.

Zendoodle Blanket

Part 4: Strips 6, 7, and 8 and Border

Note: Head to Part 1 to see blanket details and yarn amounts, etc.

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Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: This pattern is in US Terms, but there is only 1 stitch used: single crochet, so if you are used to reading UK Terms, please know that you are using UK dc for this entire project. (US) sc = (UK) dc

chN chain N number of times
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
PLT Join “Pull Loop Through” join (See more info within pattern)
Rep repeat
Rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Choosing a Construction Method

Should you join-as-you-go, or should you sew the separate strips together?

Join-as-you-go Strips: Make Strip 1 complete, and then join all subsequent strips as you go.

Love a no-sew project? This method is for you!
Want to learn my popular PLT Join method? Choose this method!

Sewn Strips: Work all strips complete (separately) and then sew them together when you’re done.

Want to take your project on the go? Choose this method!
Don’t mind a bit of sewing? This method is for you!

Tips for Neat Edges

Head to Part 1 for these tips!

Schematic

Strip 6

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 5 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: Base Triangle

Row 1 WS Using Yarn L, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn F with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn K, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Hexagon

Joining Note: Be sure to PLT join before every WS row that touches the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn A in final st of First Triangle of Bow Tie, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st (ch1, sc) evenly across 9 times, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) evenly across 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of Second Triangle of Bow Tie, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 3-20: Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc2tog over 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [19 sc, 20 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 (Ch1, sc in next sp) up to final sp before center st, ch1, sc2tog over 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) to end, placing final sc in last sp, turn. [1 sc, 2 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 Ch1, sc2tog over 2 sps, cut yarn and weave ends. [1 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn H with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn C, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 5: Diamond

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Diamond does not touch strip 5 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join yarn J in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Step 6: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn G with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn K, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 7: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn N with ss in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 7, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in center sp of Trapezoid B from Step 6, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 7, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 8: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: No joining at this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn M with ss in first sp of Trapezoid, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final st of Trapezoid, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 9: Parallelogram, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn F in the first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 7, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sc of Large Triangle, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern, cut yarn and weave ends. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 10: Large Triangle, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: No joining at this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn L with ss in first sp of Parallelogram, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sp of Parallelogram, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 11: Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn Join yarn E in the first sp of Large Triangle from Step 9, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 6 is complete! Do a happy dance!

Strip 7

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 6 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: House

Note: The House shape is made by working up a Base Triangle as for Strip 1, but instead of cutting the yarn after the Base Triangle, continue vertically as to make the House shape as instructed.

Row 1 WS Using Yarn E, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Joining Note: PLT Join before every WS row.

Rows 11-31 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc in final sp, turn [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn H with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn B, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn E with ss in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle from Step 1, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Trapezoid B, tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn G with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 5: Bow Tie

The Trapezoid B in the photo is worked after a trapezoid A, but the concept is the same.

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn I with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn C, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 6: Trapezoid A, tail pointing right

Joining Note: No joining for this shape.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn B with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center st/sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 7: Arrow B, Tail pointing left

Note: This Arrow B was created with slightly different construction. General shape is correct. Follow chart and written instruction.

Note: Arrow B is made by working a Parallelogram and then a Trapezoid B.

Joining Note: PLT Join before all WS rows that touch the completed strip.

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn H in the first st of Trapezoid, sc in same st, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp of trapezoid, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 22 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 23-41 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 8: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn K with ss in first sp, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn N, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 9: Trapezoid A, tail pointing right

Joining Note: no joining as this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn D with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center st/sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 10: Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn Join yarn C in the first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 7 is finished!! Woohoo! Give yourself a fist bump!

Strip 8

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 7 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: Base Triangle

Row 1 WS Using Yarn A, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn I with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn C, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointed left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn N with ss in final st of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 2, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in final st of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Trapezoid B, Tail pointed right

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strip.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn D with ss in first st of trapezoid, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 5: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn J with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn B, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 6: Arrow A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together..

Row 1 With RS facing, join yarn M in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 5, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before center, ch1, sc in first sp of row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 4, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before end, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of first triangle on Bow Tie from Step 5, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over the next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [21 sc, 21 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 4-20 Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to ch-sp just before sc2tog, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 Rep Rows 21 and 22, using chart as a guide. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 41 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 7: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before every WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together. .

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn L with ss in first sp of Row 41 of Arrow A from Step 6, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 8: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch completed strip

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn K with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn D, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 9: Arrow A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together..

Row 1 With RS facing, join yarn B in first st, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before center, ch1, sc in center st/sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before end, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over the next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [21 sc, 21 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 4-20 Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to ch-sp just before sc2tog, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 Rep Rows 21 and 22, using chart as a guide. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 41 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 10: Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn Join yarn C in the first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 8 is complete! Do a happy dance!

Working in strips? Now’s the time to join them! This is a variation on Zendoodle that I worked up in strips.

Whip Stitch Join

Whip st strips together as follows:

Hold 2 strips with wrong sides together, and use a long piece of yarn – about 24in. Join the yarn with slip st in the bottom corner of the strips.
Pull the long tail through the bottom corner of both strips, back to front.
Insert the hook front to back through both sps of the next st to the left, on both motifs.
Grab the long tail and pull it all the way through to the front of the piece, allowing the whip st to rest flush against the top edge of the motifs.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 across, inserting the hook through both motifs from front to back in the next st to the left, and pulling the yarn through to the front.
When the next corner is reached, if there are no more subsequent sides to join, you can weave the excess tail, cutting it down if necessary.
If there are more sides to join, do so, then cut yarn shorter if needed and weave in.
Important: Do not pull yarn tail to tighten whip sts. I prefer to let the whip sts rest flush and snug against the joined edge. Then when you open the motifs flat, you have a cute sewn edge with nice little stitches, giving a very cozy (but not messy) handmade look.

A complete view of the blanket.

Border

Here is an easy five-round border with a little bobble edge, which acts as a frame without taking away from the geometric design. For a polished look, use three different colors for Rounds 1-3, and one color for Rounds 4 and 5.

Round 1 Sc all around, putting 3sc in the corners, being careful to make the same amount of Sts on opposing sides. Top and bottom: 165 Sts and sides: 150 Sts. Place an SC at the end of every row. Join with ss to first sc.

Round 2 (sc, ch1) in corner sc – counts as first dc, 2 more dcin same St, dc in all Sts across to corner, 5 dc in corner St, Continue around until you reach the first corner, squeeze 2 dc in first corner St to complete the 5dc. Join with ss to ch1.

Round 3 and 4 Work same as Round 1 – these Rounds help the border stay straight.

Round 5 Turn work to WS facing. Sc in first St, [tr, sc] all around the piece. I do not put (sc, tr, sc) in the corners, but you certainly can! Work whichever variation you like best. Cut yarn and weave ends.

When you flip the work to RS facing, the tr Sts make bobbles on the front side. The end! Yay!

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

Linen Stitch Blanket Pattern Series

Have a look at the other blankets in this series! They are all free patterns, releasing on the last day of each month from May through September.

French Braid Blanket
Zendoodle Blanket (Part 1)
LissMiss Blanket (Coming July 31)
Beach Hut Blanket (Coming August 31)
Chevronnie Blanket (Coming September 30)

Joining Methods for 2020 VVCAL Squares

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, and a huge welcome to Week 18 of the 2020 Vibrant Vintage Crochet-A-Long (VVCAL)! I’m so glad you’re here! Many have already started, but today is the official joining day!

Announcement

I have made a huge bundle of all of my VVCAL related patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:

101 VVCAL squares, all with the same final stitch count – mix and match!
9 Joining methods – Celtic Lace Join, Original, Junior, Mini, and Mini II / Whip st join / SC JAYG and Continuous JAYG with PLT Join / Granny Stitch JAYG and Continuous JAYG
3 Lace Borders

What to Expect Today

2020 VVCAL Joining information plus links to patterns
A big showy showing of your gorgeous makes in progress!

Colorways

There are 4 versions with their own posts, all in Scheepjes Yarns:

Social Media Hashtags: #VVCAL and #CypressTextiles

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook Motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

Joining Methods

There are a few joining methods recommended for the 2020 VVCAL Squares, and I have recommended certain joins for the different colorways as the yarn amounts can vary.

Official Join – Celtic Lace Mini II (Written/Photos and Video Part 1/Part 2) – I used this join for the Catona 10g Colour Pack and Catona Shy Violet Colorway Versions
Alternate Join – SC JAYG/CJAYG with PLT Join – I used this join for the Stone Washed and River Washed 10g Colour Pack Version
Alternate Join – Granny Stitch JAYG or Continuous JAYG – I used this join for the Catona Fresh Earth Colorway Version

Celtic Lace Mini II

The Official join for the 2020 VVCAL is Celtic Lace Mini II, and you can use it for any of the Catona colorways.

Written/Photos and Video Part 1/Part 2

SC JAYG or CJAYG with PLT Join

This is an alternate joining option. I used this join for the Stone Washed and River Washed 10g Colour Pack Version, and it’s perfect if you have less yarn to join with.

SC JAYG/CJAYG with PLT Join

Granny Stitch JAYG or CJAYG

Another alternate join I put together is the Granny Stitch JAYG or Continuous JAYG – I used this join for the Catona Fresh Earth Colorway Version, and I really love it! It’s a traditional and simple join, and the continuous join version is so fun and fast!

Community Makes

Many makers are already joining their squares and some are laying them out ready to join! Here are just a few, picked from Instagram and Facebook. Keep sharing your photos as we all enjoy seeing them!

Makes from the VVCAL Facebook Group

The lovely maker is named in the caption. You might just see your own!

Makes Selected from Instagram

Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed Yarns – lovely!!

Love this one with Stone Washed and River Washed

Thank you so much for stopping in for Week 18 of the 2020 VVCAL!

Happy Crafting,

Rachele C. – The Art of Crochet Blankets

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook – motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

You may also enjoy these completed CALs

2020 VVCAL Week 17, Post 2 of 2: Prague Square

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, and a huge welcome to Week 17 of the 2020 Vibrant Vintage Crochet-A-Long (VVCAL)! I’m so glad you’re here! It’s our last week of squares; how exciting is that?

Announcement

I have made a bundle of all of my VVCAL related patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:

101 VVCAL squares, all with the same final stitch count – mix and match!
9 Joining methods – Celtic Lace Join, Original, Junior, Mini, and Mini II / Whip st join / SC JAYG and Continuous JAYG with PLT Join / Granny Stitch JAYG and Continuous JAYG
3 Lace Borders

What to Expect Today

2 blog posts, each with a square – Chicago Square , and Prague Square(this post)
Scroll down on the Plain Granny Square page and find the “Week 17” section to see which granny squares to make for this week
Patterns include written instructions in US and UK Terms, chart, step-by-step photos, and YouTube video (US Terms).

Social Media Hashtags: #VVCAL and #CypressTextiles

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook Motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

Prague Square

Find the Ravelry Page for this square here and add your project!

5 Prague Fun Facts

There is a graffiti wall devoted to John Lennon. Since 1980, it’s been repainted numerous times and is laced in graffiti lyrics from Lennon and The Beatles.
Prague is home to the longest river in the Czech Republic, the Vltava.
The city’s famous Dancing House was inspired by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Designed in collaboration with Canadian-American Frank Gehry and Croatian-Czech Vlado Milunić, the building symbolises yin and yang.
Charles Square was once the largest town square in the whole of medieval Europe. What’s even more impressive is that it is still one of the largest in the world.
Prague is home to the largest castle in the world. Dating back to the ninth century, Prague Castle spans an impressive 18 acres and is home to stunning cathedrals, chapels, royal palaces and gorgeous ornamental gardens.

Prague Square Pattern

“Catona 10g Colour Pack” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 512 and 513

Catona “Shy Violet” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 249 and 414

Catona “Fresh Earth” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 249 and 524

Colour Crafter Version: Make 1 Note: I’m just using my stash.

Stone Washed / River Washed 10g Colour Pack Version: Make 2 – Use colors 833 and 953

Measurements and Materials

Measurements: Blanket will measure about 64x72in for all colorways/yarns
Gauge: Squares measure 4.25in for Catona, 6in for Colour Crafter, 4.5in for Stone Washed/River Washed
Notions: US Size 3mm hook for Catona, 4.25mm hook for Colour Crafter, 3mm for Stone Washed’/River Washed
Yarn: Scheepjes Catona or Scheepjes Colour Crafter or Stone Washed/River Washed (See Main Info Page for quantity and colors)

Chart

Video

Note: Video is spoken in US Terms. Watch on mute to avoid confusion for UK Terms.

Subscribe on YouTube for more videos like this one!

Video coming shortly!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: Scroll down for UK Terms.

beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (US Terms)

Rnd 1 MR, beg dc, 11 dc, ss in beg dc. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (Sc, ch3, sk2) 4 times, ss in first sc. [4 sc, 4 sp]

Rnd 3 (Sc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, sc) in each sp around, ss in first sc. [12 dc, 8 sc, 8 sp]

Rnd 4 Release lp from hook, insert hook back to front through same sc, pull lp through to back, (ch3, sc in lower back half of center dc of “petal” working so sc is not seen from front side of work, ch3, sc around sc from rnd 2) 4 times, ss in first sc. [8 sc, 8 sp]

Rnd 5 (Sc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, sc) in 8 sps around, ss in first sc. [24 dc, 16 sc, 16 sp]

Rnd 6 Release lp from hook, insert hook back to front through same sc, pull lp through to back, (ch4, sc around sc from rnd 4 working behind petals) 8 times, ss in first sc. [8 sc, 8 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in 1 ch, beg dc in sp, * 2dc in same sp, 3dc in next sp, ch3, 3dc in same sp, dc in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [27 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 8 Ss in first 2 dc, beg dc between this and next dc, * 2dc in same spot, ch1, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in sp, ch1, sk 3 dc, 3dc between this and next dc, ch1, sk 3 dc, dc between this and next dc, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [48 dc, 16 sp]

Rnd 9 Beg dc in next dc, * (ch1, sk1, dc) 2 times, ch1, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in corner sp, (ch1, sk1, dc) 5 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [44 dc, 36 sp]

Rnd 10 (Sc in all sts/sps to corner, 3sc in corner sp) 4 times, sc in all sts/sps to beginning, ss in first sc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 sc]

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Note: Scroll up for US Terms.

beg beginning
beg tr (dc, ch1) – counts as 1 tr
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (UK Terms)

Rnd 1 MR, beg tr, 11 dc, ss in beg tr. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (Dc, ch3, sk2) 4 times, ss in first dc. [4 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 3 (Dc, ch1, 3tr, ch1, dc) in each sp around, ss in first dc. [12 tr, 8 dc, 8 sp]

Rnd 4 Release lp from hook, insert hook back to front through same dc, pull lp through to back, (ch3, dc in lower back half of center tr of “petal” working so dc is not seen from front side of work, ch3, dc around dc from rnd 2) 4 times, ss in first dc. [8 dc, 8 sp]

Rnd 5 (Dc, ch1, 3tr, ch1, dc) in 8 sps around, ss in first dc. [24 tr, 16 dc, 16 sp]

Rnd 6 Release lp from hook, insert hook back to front through same dc, pull lp through to back, (ch4, dc around dc from rnd 4 working behind petals) 8 times, ss in first dc. [8 dc, 8 sp]

Rnd 7 Ss in 1 ch, beg tr in sp, * 2tr in same sp, 3tr in next sp, ch3, 3tr in same sp, tr in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [27 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 8 Ss in first 2 tr, beg tr between this and next tr, * 2tr in same spot, ch1, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in sp, ch1, sk 3 tr, 3tr between this and next tr, ch1, sk 3 tr, tr between this and next tr, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [48 tr, 16 sp]

Rnd 9 Beg tr in next tr, * (ch1, sk1, tr) 2 times, ch1, (2tr, ch1, 2tr) in corner sp, (ch1, sk1, tr) 5 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [44 tr, 36 sp]

Rnd 10 (Dc in all sts/sps to corner, 3dc in corner sp) 4 times, dc in all sts/sps to beginning, ss in first dc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 dc]

Links to Completed Squares

Pin the Prague Square!

Thank you so much for stopping in for Week 17 of the 2020 VVCAL!

Happy Crafting,

Rachele C. – The Art of Crochet Blankets

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook – motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

You may also enjoy these completed CALs

2020 VVCAL Week 17, Post 1 of 2: Chicago Square

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, and a huge welcome to Week 17 of the 2020 Vibrant Vintage Crochet-A-Long (VVCAL)! I’m so glad you’re here! It’s our last week of squares; how exciting is that?

Announcement

I have made a bundle of all of my VVCAL related patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:

101 VVCAL squares, all with the same final stitch count – mix and match!
9 Joining methods – Celtic Lace Join, Original, Junior, Mini, and Mini II / Whip st join / SC JAYG and Continuous JAYG with PLT Join / Granny Stitch JAYG and Continuous JAYG
3 Lace Borders

What to Expect Today

2 blog posts, each with a square – Chicago Square (this post), and Prague Square
Scroll down on the Plain Granny Square page and find the “Week 17” section to see which granny squares to make for this week
Patterns include written instructions in US and UK Terms, chart, step-by-step photos, and YouTube video (US Terms).

Social Media Hashtags: #VVCAL and #CypressTextiles

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook Motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

Chicago Square

Find the Ravelry Page for this square here and add your project!

5 Chicago Fun Facts

The name Chicago comes from the Algonquin word “Chicagou” or “Shikaakwa,” which translates to “onion field” or “wild garlic.”
The Field Museum owns the world’s most complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton. Its name is Sue.
Chicagoans can’t resist messing around with their river. On St. Patrick’s Day, the Plumbers Union dyes it a bright shade of Irish green and every summer the Special Olympics holds a fundraiser where tens of thousands of rubber ducks race down the waterway.
In 1930, the Twinkie was invented in Chicago.
Tall-building construction was invented in Chicago and the city is known as the “Home of the Skyscraper.” It currently has four of the country’s ten tallest buildings.

Chicago Cityscape from Chicago River Waterfront at Dusk. Small boats and tourist ferries cruising on the Chicago River towards the Michigan Lake. Chicago, Illinois, USA.

Chicago Square Pattern

“Catona 10g Colour Pack” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 252 and 515

Catona “Shy Violet” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 519 and 520

Catona “Fresh Earth” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 245 and 522

Colour Crafter Version: Make 1 Note: I’m just using my stash.

Stone Washed / River Washed 10g Colour Pack Version: Make 2 – Use colors 958 and 827

Measurements and Materials

Measurements: Blanket will measure about 64x72in for all colorways/yarns
Gauge: Squares measure 4.25in for Catona, 6in for Colour Crafter, 4.5in for Stone Washed/River Washed
Notions: US Size 3mm hook for Catona, 4.25mm hook for Colour Crafter, 3mm for Stone Washed’/River Washed
Yarn: Scheepjes Catona or Scheepjes Colour Crafter or Stone Washed/River Washed (See Main Info Page for quantity and colors)

Chart

Video

Note: Video is spoken in US Terms. Watch on mute to avoid confusion for UK Terms.

Subscribe on YouTube for more videos like this one!

Video coming shortly!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: Scroll down for UK Terms.

beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (US Terms)

Rnd 1 MR, beg dc, (ch1, 3dc) 3 times, ch1, 2dc, ss in beg dc. [12 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 (3sc in sp, sc in 3 sts) 4 times, ss in first sc. [24 sc]

Rnd 3 Beg dc in corner sc, * ch2, 3dc in same st, (sk2, 3dc in next st) 2 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [36 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 4 (3sc in sp, sc in 9 sts) 4 times, ss in first sc. [48 sc]

Rnd 5 Beg dc in corner sc, * ch2, 3dc in same st, (sk2, 3dc in next st) 4 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [60 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg dc in same sp, * ch2, 3dc in same sp, (ch1, sk3, 2dc between previous and next dc) 4 times, ch1, 3dc in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [56 dc, 24 sp]

Rnd 7 (Sc in all sts/sps to corner sp, 3sc in corner sp) 4 times, sc in all sts/sps to beginning, ss in first sc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 sc]

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Note: Scroll up for US Terms.

beg beginning
beg tr (dc, ch1) – counts as 1 tr
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (UK Terms)

Rnd 1 MR, beg tr, (ch1, 3tr) 3 times, ch1, 2tr, ss in beg tr. [12 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 (3dc in sp, dc in 3 sts) 4 times, ss in first dc. [24 dc]

Rnd 3 Beg tr in corner dc, * ch2, 3tr in same st, (sk2, 3tr in next st) 2 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [36 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 4 (3dc in sp, dc in 9 sts) 4 times, ss in first dc. [48 dc]

Rnd 5 Beg tr in corner dc, * ch2, 3tr in same st, (sk2, 3tr in next st) 4 times, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [60 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg tr in same sp, * ch2, 3tr in same sp, (ch1, sk3, 2tr between previous and next tr) 4 times, ch1, 3tr in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [56 tr, 24 sp]

Rnd 7 (Dc in all sts/sps to corner sp, 3dc in corner sp) 4 times, dc in all sts/sps to beginning, ss in first dc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 dc]

Links to Completed Squares

Pin the Chicago Square!

Thank you so much for stopping in for Week 17 of the 2020 VVCAL!

Happy Crafting,

Rachele C. – The Art of Crochet Blankets

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook – motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

You may also enjoy these completed CALs

Zendoodle Blanket Free Crochet Pattern – PART 3

Published by Rachele Carmona

Welcome to PART 3 of the second free pattern of my five-blanket Linen Stitch series. Zendoodle Blanket is a pattern you may recognize. I released it in 2015, and five years later it was in need of a huge makeover as well as clarifying and simplification, so now I am re-releasing it as part of this exciting series!

Here are links to the 4 parts of this free pattern:

Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry. Both square and rectangle version PDFs are included!

Note: If you have previously purchased my Zendoodle Blanket on Etsy or Ravelry, I will send the updated PDF as soon as I am finished with it. Thank you!

Use this hashtag to keep all of the Zendoodle Blankets progress photos together.

#ZendoodleBlanket

Coming soon! Find this pattern in a condensed ad-free PDF for a small fee on Etsy, and Ravelry. Coloring pages for layouts are also included.

Zendoodle Blanket

Part 3: Strips 4 and 5

Note: Head to Part 1 to see blanket details and yarn amounts, etc.

Order Scheepjes Colour Crafter

These are affiliate links. When purchases are made through them, I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Or you can head to the Scheepjes website to find a retailer near you!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

chN chain N number of times
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
PLT Join “Pull Loop Through” join (See more info within pattern)
Rep repeat
Rnd round
RS right side
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Choosing a Construction Method

Should you join-as-you-go, or should you sew the separate strips together?

Join-as-you-go Strips: Make Strip 1 complete, and then join all subsequent strips as you go.

Love a no-sew project? This method is for you!
Want to learn my popular PLT Join method? Choose this method!

Sewn Strips: Work all strips complete (separately) and then sew them together when you’re done.

Want to take your project on the go? Choose this method!
Don’t mind a bit of sewing? This method is for you!

Tips for Neat Edges

Head to Part 1 for these tips!

Schematic

Strip 4

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 3 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: Base Triangle

Row 1 WS Using Yarn I, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn L with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn G, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: no joining as this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn H with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Large Triangle, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before all WS rows

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn G with ss in final sc of Bow tie from Step 2, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last sp on Trapezoid A from Step 3, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 5: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: No joining at this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn M with ss in first sp of Large Triangle, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sp of Large Triangle, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 6: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before every WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together. .

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn L with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 7: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 1 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn B with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all odd-numbered rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn E, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 8: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are joining strips as-you-go, be sure to work the PLT Join maneuver before each WS row.

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 9: Parallelogram, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver as shown in the photos below.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn A in the first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 19 times evenly across, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc), turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 20 times, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern, cut yarn and weave ends. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 10: Large Triangle, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: No joining at this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn K with ss in first sp of Parallelogram, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sp of Parallelogram, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 11: Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn Join yarn H in the first sp of Large Triangle from Step 9, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 4 is complete! Do a happy dance!

Strip 5

Note: If you are working the blanket join-as-you-go, then this strip is joined onto Strip 4 at the left hand edge as per the instructions. Notes will be given if you’d like to work all of the strips separately and then sew them together.

Step 1: House

Note: The House shape is made by working up a Base Triangle as for Strip 1, but instead of cutting the yarn after the Base Triangle, continue vertically as to make the House shape as instructed.

Row 1 WS Using Yarn I, MR, (sc, ch1) 3 times, sc, turn. [4 sc, 3 sp] (Mark this row as the WS – this pattern is reversible and tough to tell which side is which.)

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, * ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, rep from * 1 time, turn. [6 sc, 5 sp]

Joining Note: PLT Join before every WS row.

Rows 11-31 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in next sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc in final sp, turn [22 sc, 21 sp]

Step 2: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn B with ss in first sp, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn G, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 3: Trapezoid A, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: no joining as this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn A with ss in first sp, (sc, ch1, sc) in same sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp of Row 10 of Base Triangle, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly using above photo as a guide, ch1, sc in final sp, turn. [22 sc, 21 sp]

Row 3 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, placing final sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 4 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to within 1 sp of sc2tog, sc2tog across next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [19 sc, 20 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 5-20 Rep Rows 3 and 4, using chart as a guide when needed. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, ch1, join with ss to sc2tog of Row 20, cut yarn and weave ends. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Step 4: Large Triangle, Tail pointing left

Joining Note: PLT Join before each WS row.

Row 1 With WS facing, join Yarn F with ss in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie from Step 2, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp on Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [20 sc, 20 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) across to final sp, sc in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 19 sp]

Rows 4-41 Rep Rows 2 and 3, cutting yarn after Row 41. [1 sc]

Step 5: Trapezoid B, Tail pointing right

Joining Note: There is no joining on this shape because it doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn E with ss in first sp of Row 21 of Trapezoid A from Step 3, sc in same sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Large Triangle from Step 4, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Rows 2-20 Work exactly as for Large Triangle stopping after Row 20, cut yarn and weave all ends. [11 sc, 11 sp]

Step 6: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn M with ss in final st of Large Triangle from Step 4, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in first sp of Row 20 on Trapezoid B from Step 5, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn L, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 7: Diamond

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the Diamond does not touch strip 4 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join yarn H in final sc of first triangle of Bow Tie, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across using photo as a guide, ch1, sc in center sp, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across, ch1, sc in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Step 8: Bow Tie

First triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: There is no joining on this part, because the first triangle does not touch strip 2 at all.

Row 1 With RS facing, join Yarn N with ss in final st of Bow Tie from Step 6, sc in same st, (ch1, sc) 10 times evenly across placing final sc in last st of Diamond from Step 7, turn. [11 sc, 10 sp]

Row 2 (Ch1, sc in next sp) 10 times, turn. [10 sc, 10 sp]

Row 3 (Sc in next sp, ch1) 9 times, sc in final sp, turn. [10 sc, 9 sp]

Rows 4-21 Rep Rows 2 and 3. Cut yarn after row 21. [1 sc]

Second triangle of Bow Tie

Joining Note: If you are Joining as-you-go, then before you work all WS rows, be sure and work the PLT Join maneuver.

Rows 1-21 With WS facing and Yarn J, work as for first triangle of Bow Tie. Weave all ends.

Step 9: Fill C

Fill C is a combination of 2 shapes: Arrow A, Tail pointing left, and Fill Triangle A, Tail pointing right.

Make Arrow A, tail pointing left:

Joining Note: Be sure to work PLT Join before each WS row, unless you are making all your strips up and then sewing them together..

Row 1 With WS facing, join yarn E in final sc of second triangle on Bow Tie from Step 8, (sc, ch1, sc) in same st, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before center, ch1, sc in Diamond, (ch1, sc) 9 times evenly across to just before end, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final st of first triangle on Bow Tie from Step 8, turn. [21 sc, 20 ch]

Row 2 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over the next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [21 sc, 21 ch, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 4-20 Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) across to end, turn. [21 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 22 (Ch1, sc in next sp) across to ch-sp just before sc2tog, ch1, sc2tog over next 2 sps, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, (sc, ch1, sc) in final sp, turn. [20 sc, 21 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Rows 23-40 Rep Rows 21 and 22, using chart as a guide. [11 sc, 12 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Row 41 (Sc, ch1, sc) in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) 9 times, ch1, sc2tog, DO NOT CUT YARN. [11 sc, 11 sp, 1 sc2tog]

Make Fill Triangle A, tail pointing right:

Joining note: No joining as this shape doesn’t touch the completed strips.

Row 1 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc) 20 times evenly across, turn. [21 sc, 20 sp]

Row 2-21 Sc in first sp, (ch1, sc in next sp) across, turn. Work until 1 sc remains, cut yarn and weave ends.

Strip 5 is finished!! Woohoo! Give yourself a fist bump!

I can’t wait to share more with you, but for now, Part 3 is finished!

I hope you enjoy working on your strips!!

Happy crafting,

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets

Linen Stitch Blanket Pattern Series

Have a look at the other blankets in this series! They are all free patterns, releasing on the last day of each month from May through September.

French Braid Blanket
Zendoodle Blanket (Part 1)
LissMiss Blanket (Coming July 31)
Beach Hut Blanket (Coming August 31)
Chevronnie Blanket (Coming September 30)

Continuous Granny Stitch Join As You Go for Squares

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello again! Today I have a new-to-this-blog crochet join which will be another alternate joining method for the 2020 VVCAL. It’s the crochet Continuous Granny Stitch Join as-you-go (CJAYG) for squares, and I am using it specifically for my “Fresh Earth” colorway (Scheepjes Catona yarn).

For the regular Granny Stitch JAYG tutorial (not continous), head to this blog post!

You can now find the Granny Stitch JAYG and CJAYG in a convenient PDF format for easy printing and totally ad-free.

My 2020 VVCAL Squares

Before I start, here are some of my squares. The final stitch count is 88 sc, but you can use this join for any square stitch count, as long as you evenly spread out the 3dc groups. You’ll see what I mean later on!

Don’t you just love a pile of different squares? That’s one of my favorite things about the VVCAL projects. After 2016, 2018, and 2020, there are now over 100 square patterns to mix and match!

If you want to find out more about the Fresh Earth palette including yarn colors and amounts as well as color layout, or to learn about the 2020 VVCAL in general, head to the Fresh Earth blog post or the 2020 main CAL page.

JAYG and CJAYG – What’s the difference?

What is the difference between Join as-you-go and Continuous Join as-you-go?

JAYG just means Join as-you-go, which means that on the final round of your square edging, you join the square onto the blanket, and then complete your round, and cut the yarn. So, after you join each square on, you cut the yarn and start to join on the next square.

For the regular Granny Stitch Join as-you-go for Squares (pictured above), I am edging the squares with a round of Granny Stitch, and joining every side that is adjacent to a completed square.

CJAYG means Continuous Join as-you-go, and it is a little more complicated than the regular JAYG, but once it “clicks” you will love it!

The best way I can describe this Granny Stitch CJAYG pattern is that you are making a granny stitch crochet path around the squares like if you were drawing around them without picking up your pencil. The path makes it seem like all 4 sides of the square were edged at once when the blanket is done, but it’s just a Jedi mind trick..

Here is a graphic (from Crochet Cabana) of the path that you take when you do a CJAYG for squares. I know it looks scary! But when you get the hang of it, it really does click in place.

Continuous Granny Stitch Join As-you-go

Now that we went over some background info for CJAYG, let’s get started on this pattern!

Materials

Scheepjes Catona yarn – available from these affiliate links – purchasing through them gains me a small commission at no additional cost to you. WoolWarehouse, Deramores, Black Sheep Wool – or find a Scheepjes Retailer near you!
Size 3mm hook

Stitch Guide

Note: This tutorial is written in US Terms, but there are only 2 sts involved: (US) sc and dc. These are (UK) dc and tr, respectively. So if you are used to UK Terms, just remember, US sc = UK dc, and US dc = UK tr.

beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
ch chain
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
rem remaining
rep rep
rnd round
sc single crochet
sk skip
sp space
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
yoh yarn over hook

Instructions

Let’s get started!

First Square

With joining yarn, ss in the corner st, beg dc, * ch3, 3dc in same st, ch1, sk2, (3dc in next st, ch1, sk3) 5 times until the corner is reached, 3dc in corner st, rep from * 2 times, ch3.

Second Square

Bring second square under first square, ready to join along the top side.

3dc in the corner st of the second square,

Hold both motifs with wrong sides together, and insert the hook through the next ch-1 sp on the previous motif,

Ss in the ch-1 sp,

Sk2, (3dc in next st, ss in next ch-1 sp on previous motif, sk3) 5 times until next corner is reached, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in corner st,

Here’s a closer look:

ch1, sk2, (3dc in next st, ch1, sk3) 5 times until next corner is reached, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in corner st, ch1, sk2, (3dc in next st, ch1, sk3) 5 times until next corner is reached, 3dc in corner st, ch3,

Here’s a close-up:

Remaining Squares in this Column

Join all of the rest of the squares in the column in this same manner, except on the final square at the bottom of the column, only work 2 sides, instead of 3, ch3.

Here is a closer look of the final square in the column.

Next Column

Note: Now you will join on just the right side of each square, so that the squares hang freely like bunting or garland.

Get your squares ready to join on,

Join 1 side of the square, as before, when you get to the corner, 3dc in the corner st, and ch1,

Here is a close-up:

Holding motifs with wrong sides together, ss in the corner ch-sp that is diagonally located from the square in progress, (refer to photo below)

Ch1, pick up next motif, 3dc in corner st, ss in ch-1 sp, sk2, 3dc in next st, and so on, joining the side as before,

A closer look:

Here is what you will be looking at when you join 1 side of all squares, working your way up the column.

When the top of the column is reached, 3sc in corner st, ch1,

Ss in ch-3 corner sp, ch1,

Continue around 3 sides of the square like normal without joining, until you approach the corner as shown below,

3dc in bottom right corner st, release lp from hook, insert hook front to back through adjacent ch-3 corner sp,

Also, insert hook from front to back through diagonally located ch-3 corner sp,

Another look:

Grab loop,

Pull Loop Through the corner sps,

Ch1 – this chain encases the corner sps, then ch1 again to complete the ch-3 corner sp,

3dc in corner st on next square below in the column (in photo below it is the orange square), and continue to join the top side of the square as shown below.

Work 2 more sides of the square plain without joining, and repeat the join for the corner as before.

Here is a step back to see how the join looks in progress:

When the bottom square of the column is reached, again work only 2 sides of the square, and ch3, as shown below.

Looking good!

Continue joining columns in this manner, until all columns are joined. When you work the final column of squares, be sure to join all corners immediately, as there will not be another column of squares to link those corners up.

Finishing the Join

The yellow square below is the bottom right square in the blanket, and the last square in the final column of squares. Instead of working only 2 sides of this square, finish the corner as shown below.

Work across the top of the square as normal, make 3dc in the corner, ch1, ss in the ch-3 sp that is between the 2 squares, ch1, and continue working across the next square.

Once you have worked across all of the squares, turn the next corner, and continue down the next side in the same manner.

And that’s it! Once you have worked across those 2 “raw edges” of the blanket, you are all done! 2dc in the very first corner st to complete that first corner, ss in the beg dc, and cut your yarn, and weave ends.

I hope you like this fun and engaging twist on a simple and traditional join! I find continuous joins to be much faster going, because you aren’t just joining 1 square at a time, you’re effectively joining 1 whole column of squares at a time! It’s much neater and faster, and best of all, only 2 ends to weave in.

Thanks for stopping in for this Continuous Granny Stitch JAYG!

Happy crafting as always!

Rachele C.

Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Week 16, Post 2 of 2: Melbourne Square

Published by Rachele Carmona

Hello, and a huge welcome to Week 16 of the 2020 Vibrant Vintage Crochet-A-Long (VVCAL)! I’m so glad you’re here!

Announcement

What to Expect Today

2 blog posts, each with a square – Dublin Square, and Melbourne Square (this post)
Scroll down on the Plain Granny Square page and find the “Week 16” section to see which granny squares to make for this week
Patterns include written instructions in US and UK Terms, chart, step-by-step photos, and YouTube video (US Terms).

Social Media Hashtags: #VVCAL and #CypressTextiles

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook Motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.

Melbourne Square

Find the Ravelry Page for this square here and add your project!

5 Melbourne Fun Facts

From latrobe times

According to the RSPCA, Melbourne is officially the fox capital of the world, with between 6 and 23 foxes per square kilometre in the urban area of the city. Despite these numbers, it’s still quite rare to see one!
Melbourne used to have a history of public bathing, with residents taking to the Yarra River, the sea and city baths. If you would like to take a peek at what a bathing box looked like, there are still more than 1,800 private bathing boxes and boat sheds scattered around in Brighton.
The world’s first feature film, the Story of the Ned Kelly Gang, was filmed and made in Melbourne in 1906.
Melbourne was originally going to be named ‘Batmania’ after one of its founding fathers, John Batman.
Melbourne has the highest number of cafes and restaurants per number of people than any other city in the world.

Melbourne Square Pattern

“Catona 10g Colour Pack” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 124 and 387

Catona “Shy Violet” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 240 and 249

Catona “Fresh Earth” Version: Make 2 – Use colors 157 and 249

Colour Crafter Version: Make 1 Note: I’m just using my stash.

Stone Washed / River Washed 10g Colour Pack Version: Make 2 – Use colors 826 and 817

Measurements and Materials

Measurements: Blanket will measure about 64x72in for all colorways/yarns
Gauge: Squares measure 4.25in for Catona, 6in for Colour Crafter, 4.5in for Stone Washed/River Washed
Notions: US Size 3mm hook for Catona, 4.25mm hook for Colour Crafter, 3mm for Stone Washed’/River Washed
Yarn: Scheepjes Catona or Scheepjes Colour Crafter or Stone Washed/River Washed (See Main Info Page for quantity and colors)

Chart

Video

Note: Video is spoken in US Terms. Watch on mute to avoid confusion for UK Terms.

Subscribe on YouTube for more videos like this one!

Video coming shortly!

Stitch Guide (US Terms)

Note: Scroll down for UK Terms.

2dccl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw yarn through 3 lps
beg beginning
beg dc (sc, ch1) – counts as 1 dc
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sc single crochet
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (US Terms)

Note: Square photo above shows slightly different Rnd 6. Follow chart and written instruction.

Rnd 1 MR, beg dc, (ch1, 3dc) 3 times, ch1, 2dc, ss in beg dc. [12 dc, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 (Sc, ch5, sc, ch4) in 4 sps around, ss in first sc. [8 sc, 8 sp]

Rnd 3 Ss in 3 chs, (ch2, 5dc in next sp, ch2, ss in ch-5 sp) 4 times. [20 dc, 4 ss, 8 sps]

Rnd 4 * Sc around ss and ch-5 sp from Rnd 3 treating them as one, ch3, sk 2 dc, (2dccl, ch3, 2dccl) in next dc, ch3, rep from * 3 times, ss in first sc. [8 2dccl, 4 sc, 12 sp]

Rnd 5 Beg dc in first sp, * ch1, dc in same sp, ch1, 9dc in next sp, (ch1, dc) 2 times in next sp, ch1, dc in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [52 dc, 20 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg dc in first sp, * dc in 2 sts/sps, ch3, sk 4 dc, (2dccl, ch3, 2dccl) in next dc, ch3, sk 4 dc, dc in 7 sts/sps, rep from * 3 times omitting final dc, ss in beg dc. [8 2dccl, 36 dc, 12 sp]

Rnd 7 (Sc in 2 sts, 4sc in sp, 5sc in corner sp, 4sc in next sp, sc in 7 sts) 4 times, ss in first sc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 sc]

Stitch Guide (UK Terms)

Note: Scroll up for US Terms.

2trcl (yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw yarn through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw yarn through 3 lps
beg beginning
beg tr (dc, ch1) – counts as 1 tr
chN chain N number of times
dc double crochet
lp loop
MR make ring: slip knot, ch3, ss in third ch from hook
rep repeat
rnd round
sp space (chain space)
ss slip stitch
st stitch
tr treble crochet
yoh yarn over hook

Written Instructions & Step-by-step Photos (UK Terms)

Note: Square photo shows slightly different Rnd 6. Follow chart and written instruction.

Rnd 1 MR, beg tr, (ch1, 3tr) 3 times, ch1, 2tr, ss in beg tr. [12 tr, 4 sp]

Rnd 2 (Dc, ch5, dc, ch4) in 4 sps around, ss in first dc. [8 dc, 8 sp]

Rnd 3 Ss in 3 chs, (ch2, 5tr in next sp, ch2, ss in ch-5 sp) 4 times. [20 tr, 4 ss, 8 sps]

Rnd 4 * Dc around ss and ch-5 sp from Rnd 3 treating them as one, ch3, sk 2 tr, (2trcl, ch3, 2trcl) in next tr, ch3, rep from * 3 times, ss in first dc. [8 2trcl, 4 dc, 12 sp]

Rnd 5 Beg tr in first sp, * ch1, tr in same sp, ch1, 9tr in next sp, (ch1, tr) 2 times in next sp, ch1, tr in next sp, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [52 tr, 20 sp]

Rnd 6 Beg tr in first sp, * tr in 2 sts/sps, ch3, sk 4 tr, (2trcl, ch3, 2trcl) in next tr, ch3, sk 4 tr, tr in 7 sts/sps, rep from * 3 times omitting final tr, ss in beg tr. [8 2trcl, 36 tr, 12 sp]

Rnd 7 (Dc in 2 sts, 4dc in sp, 5dc in corner sp, 4dc in next sp, dc in 7 sts) 4 times, ss in first dc, cut yarn and weave ends. [88 dc]

Links to Completed Squares

Pin the Melbourne Square!

Thank you so much for stopping in for Week 16 of the 2020 VVCAL!

Happy Crafting,

Rachele C. – The Art of Crochet Blankets

2020 VVCAL Quick Links

2020 VVCAL Main Information Page
2020 VVCAL Tips and Tricks Page
2020 VVCAL Ravelry ebook – motifs link back to their blog posts. Favorite the square, add it to your Ravelry queue, see others’ projects, and more!
Vibrant Vintage CAL (Official) Facebook Group Post VVCAL WIP/FO pics, ask questions, post your FO pic of the old 2016 or 2018 VVCAL blanket.
CypressTextiles Tree Huggers Facebook Group – This is my main FB group (join!). Share your VVCAL progress pics in this group if you like, and I will share CAL highlights here, but the weekly action will be in the other group linked above.
YouTube Channel (Subscribe!) – Here I will be posting CAL pattern videos weekly for the duration of the CAL.
2016 VVCAL Info page and 2018 VVCAL Info page – Just in case you want to substitute some of those patterns in your blanket.