Scheepjes Colour Lab CAL
Published on January 18, 2023

Scheepjes Colour Lab CAL: Part 2 (US Terms)

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Hello lovely crafter! Welcome to Part 2 of the Colour Lab CAL! I’m so excited that this next part is finally released, and we can all get started working on it together. I published a Main Page and a Tips and Tricks page (US Terms // UK Terms), so if you haven’t read through those, you may wan to check them out!

If you don’t have your yarn yet, you can still get a kit, and that information is below. Be sure to read this whole post very carefully, including the Measurements and Gauge section for this part, as it has important information. There are tips throughout the post, so be sure to take a look at everything.

This tutorial is in US Terms. If you are looking for UK Terms, click here!

Related Links

As these sites become live, I will hyperlink them.

Where to Find Me

Where to Get Support

During the CAL, if you need pattern support, there is definitely a ton of help out there! It has been proven time and time again that the Scheepjes CALs turn beginners into rock stars. Please do not worry if the pattern looks complicated, as this safety net of support points will be there for you, just a click away.

  • Tips and Tricks Post (US Terms // UK Terms)- Your question could be answered here! (Gauge discussed as well)
  • Facebook Group Support – Definitely join the Scheepjes Facebook Groups, so you can post progress pics, get inspired by others, and of course, ask for help. The groups are wonderful and very supportive! Worldwide: Scheepjes International Facebook Group and for Dutchies: Scheepjes Dutch Facebook Group
  • CypressTextiles Website Support – For each pattern release week, I will make a blog post here on the CypressTextiles website where I will include many, many step-by-step photos of any possibly tricky parts. The entire pattern won’t be photographed here, but I will do my best to make everything clear in my still photos.
  • YouTube Support – The very talented Esther of It’s All in a Nutshell has graciously made videos for this CAL which will appear weekly on her YouTube Channel. Her videos are well known worldwide, and she is an absolute treasure.

Pattern Release Timeline

Scheepjes will share the free individual patterns on Wednesday 12:00h CET on their website and in the Official Facebook Groups. Because some motifs require more work than others, some patterns take up a week, others two weeks. Here is an overview for you to mark your calendars!

Contents of this Post

Here is a short list of what you will find below:

  • Blanket Pattern: Where to find the pattern and videos
  • Yarn Colors: Which yarn colors are used in this part, so you can pull them out
  • Blanket Progress: What will be worked in this part
  • Measurement and Gauge: Things to keep in mind with your tension
  • Tricky Parts and Weaving Ends: List of possible tricky bits and photos with explanations, and how to weave ends for this part

Be sure to read through everything before you get started, as some information may be good to know before you begin.

Blanket Pattern

The full Colour Lab CAL pattern will not be shared here on this blog, because the copyright lies with Scheepjes. The pattern for this part can be found on the Scheepjes Website or in the Scheepjes Facebook Group (International // Dutch). Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell has also published tutorial videos (Right-Handed // Left-Handed).

Please note that the original Scheepjes Pattern and the videos are all in UK Terms, but there are also US Terms patterns available, and on my website, I will publish both US and UK Terms blog posts for each part.

Blanket Progress

Here is a general minimalistic schematic of what your blanket in progress will look like after this part:

In the photo below, Part 2 is the red-outlined portion near the top.

Yarn Colors

Yarns A-C and I-T are used in this section. Separate out colors I-T, use them where indicated in the pattern, and put the remnants aside. Yarns A-C are the background colors, but I recommend wrapping the remnants of the mini-balls around the little yarn ball band if you are using a kit. Be sure you can still see the yarn color number.

My Demo Version

I’m making the Scrumptious version with randomized color layout. I’ll talk more about this in a separate blog post – yay!! This is my favorite part of the Colour Lab CAL, that there will be so many different blankets to marvel at, with everyone experimenting on their own layout.

Side note: This Scrumptious eye candy! Note: This kit is exclusive to the CAL – I recommend scooping it up if you are able!

Measurement and Gauge

Part 1 and 2 together make up Panel 1. The measurements for Panel 1 are shown below.

Metropolis version: Panel 1 measures 136 x 42cm
Scrumptious version: Panel 1 measures 168 x 52cm

Something to keep in mind as you construct Part 2 is that there are certain points on Part 2 which match up with the 10 squares of Part 1. Below, I give you a cheat sheet for this, with the 11 dots in the graphic. When you create the Center Motif, match the center up with the green dot shown, and make sure that at the end of Section 2, your motif reaches the red dots, and so on.

As you work Part 2, you can match it up to Part 1 periodically, and this will ensure that when you are ready to join them together, they are the same size.

Important Note about Gauge

Another important thing to note in general is something I have learned about gauge along the way. When working a familiar pattern like the granny square type rounds of Part 1, the tension tends to be more relaxed because your hands say, “yes, I have done this many times.” But when working on Part 2, you may have a slightly tighter tension because you are concentrating hard on getting all the stitches just so. Pay attention to this, and if you can’t seem to relax, consider changing hook size so that your work matches up with Part 1 at the right points.

This is why making gauge on Part 1 was so important, and so many folks felt like they had to go down far in hook size. There could be a chance that using the hook size given in the pattern could work for Part 2. If you are concerned about this, leave your ends unwoven until after Section 2 of the Center Motif, just to see where you are at that point.

If you are feeling frustrated because we might need to make gauge at each Part, just know that it is necessary with all of these different stitch combinations, and the fact that the panels need to fit together. Trust me, you don’t want to finish all of Part 2 and realize that Part 1 is way longer, and you need to undo your hard work. Better to make a small start, check your measurements, and then make slight tension change or hook change if needed.

One last note… If the thought of gauge absolutely puts you off, and you are working from your own yarn stash (not a kit) then you only need to make sure that each part lines up with the previous parts as you go. In this post, I will explain how to check that you are lining up along the way.

Tricky Parts and Weaving Ends

Note: If something has been covered in a previous part, I have not included it here, so make sure to read all posts as you go.

Some of the instruction for this part could potentially be tricky, so I have photo tutorials for them below. This is not a substitute for the original pattern, of course. In addition, as promised, I will show you how I weave my ends along the way. Note: I am right-handed, so these tutorials will be from a right-handed perspective. If you’re a lefty, you may need to adjust accordingly.

A Few General Notes

Here are some things that will be helpful as you work.

***Notes on working a large number of sts evenly across a long distance:

Check how many sts you need to make and over how much space you need to make them. Place a marker at the center, and then markers at the quarter midpoints, and you can divide the number of sts you need to make so that they are truly even. This takes the guesswork out, so that you don’t get to the end and realize you’ve run out of space or have too much space left. It will save you from frogging!

***Working stitches down the side of a “raw edge”

When you have to work stitches evenly down the side of a previous part, you will wonder where to place those stitches. It is neater to work “into” the tr stitches for example, rather than “around” them treating them like a ch-sp, because this can make a hole appear. I recommend working 1 st in a dc, and 2-3 sts into a decrease or a tr. this should work for your stitch counts as well as you work a certain number of sts across a side.

***Notes on weaving ends:

Weaving ends can be overwhelming. For this part, there are a number of yarn ends to weave in. I do not recommend leaving them to weave in when you’re done with the project. They need to be woven along the way so that when you’re done, you can really be done.

Also, seeing a zillion yarn ends hanging off of your project while you work can leave you frazzled and frustrated. Weaving them in as you go will help you stay positive and clear-minded and through any possibly tricky bits. Think of it as organizing your workspace.

You can use the tapestry needle provided for all of the ends as you go, which is what I instruct here. But remember, anytime you work a row of just dc, you can work over ends and they will be very well hidden and in my experience shouldn’t work themselves loose. Take advantage of these opportunities to work over your yarn ends if you like!

***Consider working in an assembly line manner to save time:

This isn’t part of the instruction, and it isn’t required. Just a little speed tip if you like! Sections 1-3 of the center, left-side, and right-side motifs are identical, just with different color placements. If you have more experience with patterns and won’t be confused by this, you can work your center, left-side, and right-side motifs Sections 1-3 in assembly line fashion so that you have each line of instruction fresh in your mind and you can just work it 3 times in succession. This saves time and also keeps you from checking the pattern so much.

For example, at the start, you would make 3 base triangles, and then work fill triangles 1 and 2 on all 3 base triangles, then make the border rows on all 3 motifs, and so on. Then when you are ready to add on Section 4, you’ll have all 3 motifs ready to go.

Let’s get started!

Center Motif

Section 1

Overview: In this section, we start with a triangle and turn it into a rectangle.

Row 3: How to “make Beg tr in pc”? See the photo below showing what this looks like.

Wrong side view

Right side view

Row 3: Visual check. Here is what the motif looks like when Row 3 is finished.

Row 4: Stitch marker placement. Photo below shows motif at this point.

***Weave yarn end 1: “Spin Around the Center” method.

***Weave yarn end 2: “Back Loop Only” method.

Fill Triangle 1

Row 1: Where to Join Yarn B? Photo shows where to join yarn on the motif.

Row 1: How to “beg dc3tog over same and next 2 sts”? Photos show how to make this decrease.

Beg dc in first st,

continue decrease over next 2 sts,

pull yarn through all 3 lps to finish decrease.

Row 2: Visual check. Photos show how the motif looks at this point.

***Weave yarn end 1: Use the Zig-zag method.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method

Fill Triangle 2

Row 1: Where to join new yarn color? Photo shows where to join on.

***Weave yarn ends just as for Fill Triangle 1

Border Section

Row 1: Where to join new yarn?

Row 1: What does it mean by “6sc evenly”? Photo below shows all 4 parts where you have to make 6 sc evenly, and where these sts are placed.

***Weave yarn end 1: Weave yarn end through row of sc sts.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Row 2: Join yarn on as shown.

Row 4: How are the tiny ‘bobbles’ formed? Photos show how the bobbles appear on the RS of the work.

(1sc, 1tr) 5 times over 10 sts/sps,

See how the tr sts poke out at the front of the work?

Row 5: Visual check. Here is how the motif looks at this point.

***Weave yarn end 1: Weave yarn through sc sts as before.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Check measurements at this point.

Metropolis: 10.5 x 6cm
Scrumptious: 14 x 7.5cm

Section 2

Overview: This section turns the motif back into a triangle.

Fill Triangle 3

Row 1: Where to join yarn on and begin working? Photos show how to start this fill triangle.

Row 1: How to make “1sc in each of next 2 ch-3 sps of last row of Section 1”?

Row 2: What does it mean to “sk 2 sc, 2sc in next st”?

Skip 2 sc:

2sc in next st and continue the row.

Row 6: Visual check. Here is how the motif looks after Row 6.

***Weave yarn end 1: Zig-zag method.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Fill Triangle 4

Row 1: Where to join yarn and begin?

Row 6: Visual check.

***Weave yarn end 1 “Zig-Zag” Method.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Fill Triangle 5

Row 1: Where to join yarn and begin?

Here I will show you the ends of each row, 1-6.

Row 1 ending:

Row 2 ending:

Row 3 ending:

Row 4 ending:

Row 5 ending:

Row 6 ending:

***Weave yarn end 1: Zig-zag method.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Border Section

Row 1: Join on the new yarn.

Row 1: Making sc sts evenly:

Work 14sc evenly,

Make 3sc in ch-sp, 1sc in next ch-sp, 3sc in next ch-sp as shown:

Make 14sc evenly again across fill triangle:

Make 3sc in corner st, and work across second side the same as the first side.

***Weave yarn end 1: Weave yarn through sc sts as before.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Row 2: Join on the new yarn and begin sc row.

Row 6: Visual check. Here is how the motif looks after Row 6.

***Weave yarn end 1: Weave yarn through sc sts as before.

***Weave yarn end 2: BLO Method.

Check measurements at this point, and hold up to Part 1 to see how it matches up. You can see mine matches up well. If you’re off a cm or so, you will probably be fine easing it into place.

Metropolis: 26 x 14cm
Scrumptious: 34 x 17cm

Section 3

Overview: This section turns the motif back into a rectangle.

Base Rectangle

Row 1: Where to join yarn and begin.

Row 1: Clarification of, “leaving rem sts unworked.”

Row 3: Making the bobbles in a different color.

Join Yarn I in last yoh of prev st

with Yarn I, bobble in next ch-1 sp working over unused yarn, change to Yarn K keeping yarn I at the wrong side of the work so it doesn’t show at the front of the blanket,

and then continue row dropping yarn I

Note: Unused yarn is held at WS of work to conceal Yarn K only when working bobble in Yarn I, and as bobble is worked on WS, Yarn I tails are kept facing you.

Row 8: Visual check: Front of work.

Row 8: Visual check: Back of work.

***Weave yarn end 1 (Yarn K): Weave yarn through sc sts.

***Weave yarn ends of all 4 bobbles: Make Surgeon’s Knot as follows, and weave yarn ends throughout bobble, cutting off excess.

Make first knot with one pass.

Make second knot with 2 passes, being sure the knot is seated properly so it stays tight.

Note: Pull the knot snug, but don’t break the yarn by accident.

Here is a graphic for the Surgeon’s Knot to clarify:

***Weave yarn end 2 (Yarn K): BLO Method.

Fill Triangle 6

Row 1: Join new yarn and begin.

Row 1: How to “sc3tog over next 2 sc and side of first sc from Base Rectangle”?

Row 1: Visual check.

Row 4: sc5tog as follows:

***Weave yarn end 1: Weave yarn through sc sts.

***Weave yarn end 2: Zig-zag method.

Fill Triangle 7

Row 1: Where to join yarn and begin.

***Weave ends 1 and 2 as for Fill Triangle 6.

Fill Triangle 8

Important Note: We will be creating a small leaf using colorwork, changing colors between Yarn B and Yarn L. Where the leaf (Yarn L) is being worked, work over the unused yarn, but where the background is being worked, drop the leaf color yarn, and do not work over it. You will pick it up on the next row when you continue working the leaf.

Row 1: Where to join yarn and begin.

Row 2: How to join yarn L in the tr3tog.

And continue working over Yarn B,

Row 2: Changing back to Yarn B and continuing the row.

Change back to yarn B,

Continue the row.

Row 3: Pick up Yarn L from the WS of the work to continue the leaf,

Continue the row working over yarn B, then change back to yarn B dropping yarn L

Row 7: Visual check.

Row 8: Visual check.

***Weave all ends using zig-zag method.

Now is a good time to compare the size of this half of the motif to one square from Part 1. As you can see, this half of the motif in progress completely covers 1 square from Part 1.

Make next side of motif in the same way as the first side.

Here is a full photo:

***Weave all yarn ends as before.

Check measurements.

Metropolis: 26 x 14cm
Scrumptious: 34 x 17cm

Section 4

Overview: This section turns the motif back into a triangle.

Fill Triangle 9

Row 1: Where to join yarn and make total 37sc.

Important: Use the trick of marking the halfway point and ensuring your stitch counts are evenly distributed. I’ve marked the halfway point here and since I need to place 37 stitches, I know at that stitch marker, I will have 1sc. Then on either side of it, I need 18sc. This trick keeps you from having to repeatedly frog back because you have too many sts to fit in at the end of the side, or too few.

Row 9: Visual check.

***Weave yarn ends with zig-zag method and BLO Method.

Row 13: Visual check.

***Weave yarn ends with zig-zag method and BLO Method.

Row 19: Visual check.

Check again to Part 1 measurements, and make sure the tip of Row 19 ends at the next square on Part 1.

Zooming out a bit:

Fill Triangle 10

This portion is worked similarly to Fill Triangle 9.

***Weave all ends as you go, as before.

Fill Triangle 11

Row 1: Where to join yarn and make 73sc evenly.

Again I have the stitches marked out. The center marker will have 1sc, then there are 36sc at either side of that center marker, with 18sc before and after each quarter marker. So to distribute the sts with these markers, you will have 18, 18, 1, 18, 18 sc sts adding up to 73.

***Weave in all ends as you go.

Row 19: Visual check.

Close up!

Check measurements

Metropolis: 54 x 28cm
Scrumptious: 68 x 34cm

Check against Part 1 as shown:

In the photo, one of my fill triangles is not made yet, but you get the idea of how the motifs need to measure up to Part 1. Refer to the dotted diagram toward the beginning of this post as well.

Left-Hand Side Motif

Overview: This motif is worked just like the Center Motif (with different colors), but Fill Triangle 9 is omitted.

Right-Hand Side Motif

Overview: This motif is worked just like the Center Motif (with different colors), but Fill Triangle 10 is omitted.

Check measurements – both motifs measure as follows:

Metropolis: 42 x 28cm
Scrumptious: 50 x 34cm

Edging Round

Follow the instructions carefully (watching Esther’s video will be most helpful), and join yarn to left-hand side motif. The edging round is best worked following the video if the written text is too confusing.

There are plenty of visual aids in the Scheepjes files pattern, but I have created a little extra visual of the path for the edging and joining. This visual is in UK Terms, so it shows “dc” which is a US “sc.”

Make sure to check your stitch counts.

With this info, you should be able to finish Part 2 along with the pattern and videos. Enjoy!

And that’s all for Part 2! Thank you so much for following along with the Colour Lab CAL, it’s been so fun seeing everyone’s color layouts!

Happy crafting!

Rachele C.

The Art of Crochet Blankets (affiliate)

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